Episode 91: Enamel 101

Episode 91: Enamel 101

From Hairspring by Hairspring

April 10, 2026 · 1h 6m · Episode 91

About this episode

This episode explores the basics of enamel dials in wristwatches, covering historical roots and various techniques.

A longstanding craft which has graced some of the greatest wristwatches made, this episode studies the basics of enamel dials and their application in wristwatches. From historical roots until work being performed today, Erik & Max cover the main techniques of Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé, Flinqué, and engraved enamel. Nuanced, examples, techniques, and the background needed to begin conversations about the topic of enamel dials are all in here. Links Mentioned: Peter Henlein Nuremberg Eggs: https://quillandpad.com/2014/12/15/the-worlds-oldest-watch-a-peter-henlein-mystery-from-1505-solved/ Jean Toutin: https://www.themagazineantiques.com/article/seventeenth-century-french-enameled-watches-walters-art-gallery/ Miklos Merczel JLC: https://quillandpad.com/2014/07/23/jaeger-lecoultres-art-of-in-house-enameling/ Daniel Quare: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Quare Grand Feu: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-2526-enamel-dial-donze-cadrans https://hairspring.com/products/5370p-split-seconds-chronograph-platinum-1 https://hairspring.com/products/tourbillon-double-spiral-besancon-certified-white-gold_43241 Cloisonné…

People in this episode

Hosts: Erik, Max

Topics covered

  • enamel dials
  • wristwatches
  • craft techniques
  • historical roots
  • watchmaking

Keywords

  • enamel
  • wristwatches
  • Grand Feu
  • Cloisonné
  • Champlevé
  • Flinqué
  • watchmaking techniques

Mentioned in this episode

Organizations: Peter Henlein, Jean Toutin, Miklos Merczel JLC, Daniel Quare

Books & works: Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé, Flinqué, engraved enamel

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