About this episode

C.J. Macias shares his mythic journey as a big wave surfer and healer, exploring themes of fear, transformation, and the ocean's power.

C.J. Macias is a big wave surfer, healer, and teacher whose life feels as mythic as it is deeply human. Featured in HBO’s Emmy Award–winning series 100 Foot Wave, C.J.’s journey stretches from the beaches of Florida, where he first surfed with his dad, to Nazaré, Portugal, home of the largest waves on earth. Along the way he has faced devastating wipeouts, near-death moments, and the kind of initiations that strip life down to its essence. In 100 Foot Wave, we witness not only the danger and beauty of Nazaré, but also the brotherhood among surfers, the intimate dance with fear, and the transformation that comes from surrendering to the ocean’s immense power. In this conversation, we explore C.J.’s path, his call to big waves with Garrett McNamara, his evolving relationship with fear and the unknown, the ocean as teacher, and how Joseph Campbell’s vision of myth resonates with his own path.

People in this episode

Host: Tyler Lapkin

Guest: C.J. Macias

Topics covered

• big wave surfing
• mythic journeys
• fear and transformation
• ocean as teacher
• brotherhood among surfers

Keywords

• big wave surfing
• C.J. Macias
• 100 Foot Wave
• Nazaré
• fear
• transformation
• ocean

Mentioned in this episode

Books & works: 100 Foot Wave

Places: Florida, Nazaré, Portugal

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