
Billy Crombie discusses the cultural significance and authenticity of Babaji’s Kerala Kitchen in Warburton.
Billy Crombie and husband Max (Mohammed) Kamil Hassan don’t run a typical regional restaurant. At Babaji’s Kerala Kitchen, set in a restored 1936 cabaret hall on the edge of Warburton in Victoria’s Yarra Valley, they have built something closer to a cultural bridge, and, for many Southern Indians, a portal back home. In this conversation, Billy talks through everything from the ritual of pouring a steaming davara coffee and the pull of nostalgia, the familiar feel of Kerala recreated in the hills and the importance of community. She reflects on the challenge of staying fiercely authentic in a market that doesn’t always understand South Indian food, the unlikely journey from a market stall to a destination restaurant people will drive hours to reach, and the deeply personal mix of place, identity and community that underpins everything Babaji’s has become. It was such a great chat and Billy gave me lots of delicious curries to take away and try with my friends in Warburton, which was generous and lovely.
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