EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

From The Nugget Climbing Podcast by Steven Dimmitt

February 23, 2026 · 2h 4m

About this episode

Joel Unema discusses training techniques for improving finger strength and power endurance in rock climbing.

Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helped him send a 20+ move roof boulder, how to optimize your power endurance for a sport climbing trip, and much more. Buckle up for a good old-fashioned training chat.

People in this episode

Host: Steven Dimmitt

Guest: Joel Unema

Topics covered

  • finger strength
  • bouldering
  • power endurance
  • rock climbing training
  • high-performance climbing

Keywords

  • V14
  • 5.14b
  • bouldering
  • training
  • climbing coach
  • power endurance
  • rock climbing

Mentioned in this episode

Organizations: Climb Strong

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