Culinary Historians of Chicago

Two Great Chefs: Chicago’s Evolution as a Food Mecca John Hogan and Tony Mantuano Come join us as two of Chicago’s most acclaimed chefs, John Hogan and Tony Mantuano, look back on their 40+ year careers in Europe and Chicago, and reveal how our city has evolved as a world class food destination since the 1980’s, the significant changes in the restaurant industry, the farm-to-table movement, and their vision of restaurants in the future. BIOS Chef John Hogan began his career in the 1979 learning the craft of French cuisine in some of Chicago’s finest restaurants. In 1987 he was contacted by Chef Jean Joho at the four-star Everest. Chef Joho took Hogan under his tutelage and groomed him to run the kitchen. Later Chef Joho recommended Hogan to Georges “Kiki” Cuiance, where he spent the next five years developing his style of French food. Kiki’s Bistro is where he earned many accolades in both local and national press, He then was tapped by David Burke to run the Chicago outpost of Park Avenue. Later he fulfilled his dream of opening his own French restaurant, Savarin. When he opened Savarin, the Chicago Tribune named Hogan as one of the “Top 10 Chefs in Chicago. Following Savarin, Hogan joined Glenn Keefer, who was a well-regarded Chicago steak house legend and opened Keefer’s. After a successful thirteen year run, Hogan took a trip to London with his longtime friend, Tony Mantuano, where they together created the idea of a English style Roast House, River Roast, on the Chicago River. The eatery features whole roasted meats, and a charcuterie program. After being named Chef of the year in 2018 and inducted in to the Chicago Chef Hall of Fame, Hogan decided it was time to move on. He is currently pursuing his vision for the production and distribution of charcuterie, as well as a blues based television show, Chef Tony Mantuano has been credited as being among the first to bring fine Italian dining to Chicago at Spiaggia, one of the country’s most decorated Italian restaurants. He is respected as a mentor to others and has received 12 nominations from The James Beard Foundation, winning Best Chef Midwest in 2005. He was also honored by President Obama for his culinary contributions to diplomacy (and cooked at the White House as well!) Most recently he served as Food and Beverage Partner at Yolan, an Italian restaurant in Nashville that was voted the #1 restaurant in America by Food & Wine readers. He is also the co-author of Wine Bar Food, a celebration of the Mediterranean. Recorded via Zoom on February 19, 2025 CONNECT WITH CULINARY HISTORIANS OF CHICAGO ✔ MEMBERSHIP https://culinaryhistorians.org/membership/ ✔ EMAIL LIST http://culinaryhistorians.org/join-our-email-list/ ✔ S U B S C R I B E https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6Y0-9lTi1-JYu22Bt4_-9w ✔ F A C E B O O K https://www.facebook.com/CulinaryHistoriansOfChicago ✔ PODCAST 2008 to Present https://culinaryhistorians.org/podcasts/ By Presenter https://culinaryhistorians.org/podcasts-by-presenter/ ✔ YOUTUBE https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6Y0-9lTi1-JYu22Bt4_-9w ✔ W E B S I T E https://www.CulinaryHistorians.org

How Vienna Changed Baking Everywhere Rick Rodgers’ book, Kaffeehause: Exquisite Desserts from Vienna, Budapest, and Prague, has been in print for over two decades. Its longevity is primarily due to the luscious recipes, which are so different from those in the Franco-Italo canon. Also, readers are fascinated by the interesting story of the coffeehouse culture. In his presentation, Rick will discuss how the Viennese (it was not Marie Antoinette) brought the crescent roll (kipferl) to Paris, its transformation into the croissant, and subsequent conquering of the pastry world. In Europe, what we Americans call Danish are called Viennoiserie, but do you know the story behind the discrepancy? What famous dessert was the basis of a long and expensive lawsuit to determine the legal owner of the recipe? What is the difference between “masculine/feminine” and “sugar/flour” desserts on Viennese menu? Rick will also tell how he researched his book, and his work as a ghostwriter with many celebrities, chefs, and social media influencers. Rick Rodgers is the sole author, co-author, ghostwriters, or editor of over a hundred cookbooks, many of which have been nominated for Beard, IACP, and Gourmand Awards. He is also the recipient of Bon Appétit Magazine’s Food & Entertaining Award for Outstanding Culinary Teacher. He is currently consulting social media influencers as they transition to cookbook writing. Recorded via Zoom on Tuesday, January 7, 2025 CONNECT WITH CULINARY HISTORIANS OF CHICAGO ✔ MEMBERSHIP https://culinaryhistorians.org/membership/ ✔ EMAIL LIST http://culinaryhistorians.org/join-our-email-list/ ✔ S U B S C R I B E https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6Y0-9lTi1-JYu22Bt4_-9w ✔ F A C E B O O K https://www.facebook.com/CulinaryHistoriansOfChicago ✔ PODCAST 2008 to Present https://culinaryhistorians.org/podcasts/ By Presenter https://culinaryhistorians.org/podcasts-by-presenter/ ✔ YOUTUBE https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6Y0-9lTi1-JYu22Bt4_-9w ✔ W E B S I T E https://www.CulinaryHistorians.org

Leftovers A History of Food Waste & Preservation Eleanor Barnett, PhD A third of all the food we produce goes to waste globally, and if all this needlessly discarded food were a country it would be the third largest emitter of greenhouse gases in the world after China and the US! How did we become such a wasteful society? What can we learn about building a sustainable food future by looking to the past?Based on Dr Eleanor Barnett’s newly-published book Leftovers: A History of Food Waste and Preservation, this talk will explore the many ingenious ways our ancestors sought to avoid food waste through preservation, recycling or otherwise disposing of food scraps. Beginning in the Tudor kitchen, it’s a delicious and disgusting story that takes us to medieval streets lined with butchers’ offal, that explores the world-changing inventions in preservation of the Industrial Revolution, the hidden history of Victorian street-food scavengers, the thrifty recipes of the World Wars, right through to the AI restaurants of the future. Through our leftovers, we learn a lot more about our culture and our shared history, from poverty and inequality to globalisation. If we are what we don’t eat, we are equally defined by what we don’t eat! Eleanor Barnett is a historian of food and religion with a PhD from the University of Cambridge (UK). She is currently a Leverhulme Early Career Fellow at Cardiff University in Wales, where her research uses food as a unique lens through which to view the daily lives, beliefs, and identities of ordinary people in the past. Her first book, Leftovers: A History of Food and Preservation has just been released in 2024, exploring the topical issue of wasting food from a historical lens that moves from the medieval era to the AI restaurants of the future! Her other area of expertise focuses on the links between food and religion in the early modern world, exploring shared meals to break down traditional Christian-centric notions of major themes from the Reformation to colonisation. As @historyeats on Instagram, Eleanor posts daily food history facts, stories, and art to a large international following . She is a regular contributor to public-facing media, including TV, podcasts, and radio, and writes the monthly food history column for BBC History Magazine. Recorded via Zoom on November 9, 2024 CONNECT WITH CULINARY HISTORIANS OF CHICAGO ✔ MEMBERSHIP https://culinaryhistorians.org/membership/ ✔ EMAIL LIST http://culinaryhistorians.org/join-our-email-list/ ✔ S U B S C R I B E https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6Y0-9lTi1-JYu22Bt4_-9w ✔ F A C E B O O K https://www.facebook.com/CulinaryHistoriansOfChicago ✔ PODCAST 2008 to Present https://culinaryhistorians.org/podcasts/ By Presenter https://culinaryhistorians.org/podcasts-by-presenter/ ✔ YOUTUBE https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6Y0-9lTi1-JYu22Bt4_-9w ✔ W E B S I T E https://www.CulinaryHistorians.org

The Glor y of Chicago-Style BBQ Dominique Leach We’ve all heard of the classic BBQ styles from regions like Kansas City, Memphis or Texas. But what about Chicago-style BBQ? From rib tips to hot links to mild sauce and more, Chicago chef and pitmaster Dominique Leach of the black-women-queer-owned and award-winning restaurant Lexington Betty’s Smokehouse (plus the 2023 winner of the Food Network’s hit show BBQ Brawl), is making it her mission to further define this unique style and put it on the map in 2024. Join us to hear Dominique discuss the origins of Chicago-style BBQ, its variations, and its future. Biography: Known as one of the Chicago’s leading BBQ chefs, Dominique Leach is a classically trained chef turned nationally recognized pitmaster. First garnering culinary experience in some of Chicago’s most prestigious kitchens under the direction of such chef icons as Tony Mantuano at Spiaggia, and Sarah Grueneberg at Monteverde, Leach then branched out with her wife Tanisha in 2016 to create her own catering company “Cater to You Events & Drop Offs.” Inspired by fond childhood memories of her grandmother, Betty King of Lexington, Mississippi, who filled the house with flavorful aromas of home-cooked meals, Dominique then took those aromas and applied techniques to launch a successful food truck, Lexington Betty Smoke House. Her expertise and soulful food would earn her a spot on The Food Network’s show “Chopped” and as a judge/contestant on Food Network Canada “Fire Masters,” recognition as the “Best Barbecue in Chicago” by Good Morning America, as well as a full brick-and-mortar home for Lexington Betty on Chicago’s South Side. Chef Leach and her wife’s persistence in a male-dominated industry have helped them to carve out a name for themselves in the culinary world in Chicago and beyond. Recorded via Zoom on October 30, 2024 CONNECT WITH CULINARY HISTORIANS OF CHICAGO ✔ MEMBERSHIP https://culinaryhistorians.org/membership/ ✔ EMAIL LIST http://culinaryhistorians.org/join-our-email-list/ ✔ S U B S C R I B E https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6Y0-9lTi1-JYu22Bt4_-9w ✔ F A C E B O O K https://www.facebook.com/CulinaryHistoriansOfChicago ✔ PODCAST 2008 to Present https://culinaryhistorians.org/podcasts/ By Presenter https://culinaryhistorians.org/podcasts-by-presenter/ ✔ YOUTUBE https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6Y0-9lTi1-JYu22Bt4_-9w ✔ W E B S I T E https://www.CulinaryHistorians.org

Meticulous Process of Recipe Writing Raeanne Sarazen Raeanne Sarazen received the IACP Award 2024 in the Reference and Technical catagory: The Complete Recipe Writing Guide: Mastering Recipe Development, Writing, Testing, Nutrition Analysis, and Food Styling Raeanne Sarazen Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics One might think that writing a recipe is an easy task; just list some ingredients, their amounts and give some simple instructions on how to combine them, then roast, bake, boil or fry them. But it’s not that easy! Writing a recipe that takes a cook’s hand and guides them into turning out a delicious dish, takes great skill, with a large pinch of talent thrown in. Come join us as Raeanne Sarazen, registered dietitian and chef, gives us a behind-the-scenes look at the grueling and glorious art of recipe writing. Raeanne will also delve into the history and evolution of recipes, the art of headnote writing, and the importance of nutrition standards. Raeanne will reference her recently published book, The Complete Recipe Writing Guide, which is an awards finalist at the International Association of Culinary Professionals. BIO: Raeanne Sarazen, a registered dietitian and chef, combines over 20 years of experience producing recipe content as a test kitchen professional, food writer, and editor. Her writing and recipes have appeared in the Chicago Tribune, The Wall Street Journal, Cooking Light, and Better Homes and Gardens, among other places. She is the author of The Complete Recipe Writing Guide, a comprehensive resource for food professionals on developing, writing, and publishing successful recipe content. Raeanne currently works as a consultant for major health organizations, nonprofits, and food media companies, incorporating her extensive knowledge and experience to help improve their policies, curriculum, and food and recipe content. Find Raeanne at RaeanneSarazen.com and on Instagram @rsarazen. Recorded via Zoom on Wednesday, September 18, 2024 CONNECT WITH CULINARY HISTORIANS OF CHICAGO ✔ MEMBERSHIP https://culinaryhistorians.org/membership/ ✔ EMAIL LIST http://culinaryhistorians.org/join-our-email-list/ ✔ S U B S C R I B E https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6Y0-9lTi1-JYu22Bt4_-9w ✔ F A C E B O O K https://www.facebook.com/CulinaryHistoriansOfChicago ✔ PODCAST 2008 to Present https://culinaryhistorians.org/podcasts/ By Presenter https://culinaryhistorians.org/podcasts-by-presenter/ ✔ YOUTUBE https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6Y0-9lTi1-JYu22Bt4_-9w ✔ W E B S I T E https://www.CulinaryHistorians.org

How Publishing Legend Judith Jones Shaped Culture in America Sarah B. Franklin Come join us as food historian and author Sara Franklin gives insight into Judith Jones, the visionary behind some of the most important authors of the 20th century, including Julia Child, Anne Frank, John Updike and Sylvia Plath. This iconic editor finally gets her due in Ms. Franklin’s newly released book, The Editor. Ms. Franklin recounts that when Judith Jones began working at Doubleday’s Paris office in 1949, the then twenty-five-year-old spent most of her time wading through manuscripts in the slush pile and passing on projects—until one day, a manuscript caught her eye. She read the book in one sitting, then begged her boss to consider publishing it. A year later, Anne Frank: The Diary of a Young Girl became a bestseller. It was the start of Jones’ culture-defining career in publishing. Jones moved to Knopf publishing, and during her more than fifty years at that company, she published the who’s who of food writing, including Edna Lewis, M.F.K. Fisher, Madhur Jaffrey, James Beard, Joan Nathan, and, most famously, Julia Child. Jones helped turn these authors into household names and changed the way Americans think about food, cooking, and culinary diversity. Ms. Franklin became friendly with Ms. Jones, conducted numerous interviews with her and studied her personal papers. And now she wants to share the life of one of our country’s most influential tastemakers. Biography: Sara B. Franklin received a 2020–2021 National Endowment for the Humanities (NEH) public scholars grant for her research on Judith Jones and teaches courses on food culture, writing, and oral history at NYU’s Gallatin School for Individualized Study and via the NYU Prison Education Initiative at Wallkill Correctional Facility. She is the author of Edna Lewis and The Phoenicia Diner Cookbook. She holds a PhD in food studies from NYU and studied documentary radio and nonfiction at both the Duke Center for Documentary Studies and the Salt Institute for Documentary Studies. SaraBFranklin.com. Recorded via Zoom on June 10, 2024 CONNECT WITH CULINARY HISTORIANS OF CHICAGO ✔ MEMBERSHIP https://culinaryhistorians.org/membership/ ✔ EMAIL LIST http://culinaryhistorians.org/join-our-email-list/ ✔ S U B S C R I B E https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6Y0-9lTi1-JYu22Bt4_-9w ✔ F A C E B O O K https://www.facebook.com/CulinaryHistoriansOfChicago ✔ PODCAST 2008 to Present https://culinaryhistorians.org/podcasts/ By Presenter https://culinaryhistorians.org/podcasts-by-presenter/ ✔ YOUTUBE https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6Y0-9lTi1-JYu22Bt4_-9w ✔ W E B S I T E https://www.CulinaryHistorians.org

Ignite The Conversation: A Exploration Into Chicago-style BBQ Dominique Leach (Lexington Betty Smokehouse) – Brian Jupiter (Frontier/Ina Mae Tavern)- Daniel Hammond (Smoky Soul BBQ)- Ron Conner (U Want Dat Smoke BBQ) Media Speakers: Journalist Monica Eng of AXIOS Chicago and co-author of Made in Chicago: Stories Behind 30 Great Hometown Bites & James Beard Award-winning food writer/video producer Mike Gebert of Fooditor Moderator: Catherine Lambrecht, Culinary Historians of Chicago We’ve all heard of the classic BBQ styles from regions like Kansas City, Memphis or Texas-style. But what about Chicago-style BBQ? From Rib tips to Hot Links to Mild Sauce and more, Chicago Chef and Pitmaster Dominique Leach of the Black-Women-Queer-Owned and award-winning restaurant Lexington Betty’s Smokehouse, plus the 2023 winner and the current reigning “MASTER OF ‘CUE” of the Food Network’s Hit Show BBQ Brawl , is making it her mission to further define this unique style and put it on the map in 2024. And she’s calling on a few more experts to help! On Sunday, February 25th, join us for Ignite the Conversation, an educational panel and BBQ tasting with BBQ legends from throughout Chicago and top local journalists to lead a discussion on the origins of Chicago-style BBQ, its variations, and its future. To moderate the discussion, she has tapped Catherine Lambrecht of the Culinary Historians of Chicago with proceeds of this event to be made to their American Midwest Scholarship fund which provides financial support for the study of Midwestern foods and food-related institutions. Recorded live at Lexington Betty Smokehouse on February 25, 2024 www.CulinaryHistorians.org

The Delmonico Way Max Tucci From Scott Warner, President, Culinary Historians of Chicago I just couldn’t pass it up. When I attended the International Association of Culinary Professionals Conference in New York this past September, one limited-seating event had me signing up immediately: an historic dinner in the board room at Delmonico’s, hosted by third generation partner and global brand officer, Max Tucci. Max regaled us with the luscious history of what is widely recognized as America’s first fine dining restaurant, that began in 1827 in Manhattan as a small cafe and pastry shop. It was opened by Italian-Swiss immigrants, the brothers Giovanni and Pietro Delmonico. Ten years later, in 1837, they moved nearby to what is still Delmonico’s present location at 56 Beaver Street — in the heart of Manhattan’s financial district. The rich, powerful and famous frequented the eatery. Fast forward 100 years, to 1926, and Italian immigrant Oscar Tucci (Max’s grandfather) buys Delmonico’s, opens a speakeasy in the basement, continues attracting celebrities and world leaders (i.e.,Elvis, Jackie Kennedy Onassis, Marilyn Monroe, Richard Nixon) and institutes many of the professional restaurant standards in use today, known as the Delmonico Way. During the height of the Tucci era, Delmonico’s, with its many rooms was considered the largest restaurant in the world. (63,000 sq. ft.) One of the lush private dining rooms included an en suite bedroom — if only the walls could talk! Delmonico’s is also credited with being the first U.S. restaurant to use white tablecloths, and the creator of Delmonico steak, Eggs Benedict, Baked Alaska, Lobster Newberg and the Wedge Salad. So do join us as Max Tucci takes us on his personal tour of his beloved Delmonico’s. Max has also captured his family’s legacy in his book, The Delmonico Way. Sublime Entertaining and Legendary Recipes from the Restaurant that Made New York! (Rizzoli). Recorded via Zoom on November 9, 2023 CONNECT WITH CULINARY HISTORIANS OF CHICAGO ✔ MEMBERSHIP https://culinaryhistorians.org/membership/ ✔ EMAIL LIST http://culinaryhistorians.org/join-our-email-list/ ✔ S U B S C R I B E https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6Y0-9lTi1-JYu22Bt4_-9w ✔ F A C E B O O K https://www.facebook.com/CulinaryHistoriansOfChicago ✔ PODCAST 2008 to Present https://culinaryhistorians.org/podcasts/ By Presenter https://culinaryhistorians.org/podcasts-by-presenter/ ✔ YOUTUBE https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6Y0-9lTi1-JYu22Bt4_-9w ✔ W E B S I T E https://www.CulinaryHistorians.org