Gravy

In Texas and Louisiana, chefs, millers, and home bakers are increasingly turning to using whole-grain, stone-milled flour in their breads, cakes, and pastries. These flours are milled with the ancient process of stone milling: flour is produced by crushing the whole kernel of the wheat grain between enormous stones, versus the more modern process of roller milling, which produces the finely grained, snow-white flour most of us are accustomed to. Stone-ground flour is coarser and more nutrient dense, and can also be more difficult to source, use, and store thanconventional flour. Despite that, these flours are no longer the sole purview of professional pastry chefs and artisan bread bakers. A new group of consumers are turning to organic, stone ground, and so-called heritage or ancient strains of wheat: followers of the Make America Healthy Again (MAHA) movement. These home bakers are increasingly convinced that modern, roller-milled wheat is making them sick, resulting in diagnoses as broad as chronic inflammation, IBS, and non-Celiac gluten intolerance. As a baker and recipe developer, Bronwen Wyatt wanted to get to the bottom of the flour debate, which reflects a growing anxiety around the safety of American food. She speaks to bakers Pamela Thibodeaux of Barton Springs Mill in Dripping Springs, Texas and Keira Watt of Bellegarde Bakery in New Orleans to learn why they choose to use stone milled flour, and what their customers are communicating to them about their flour choices. She also turns to scientistsDr. Jessica Biesiekierski, an expert in non-celiac gluten intolerance, and Dr. Aaron Fox, who specializes in organic and sustainable agriculture, to learn more about whether our fears aroundwheat mean we need to change our shopping and baking behaviors. Do we need to have an all-or-nothing approach to conventional flour, or can all the South’s many diverse, long-standing baking traditions continue to co-exist? Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In "The Piggly Wiggly Way: A Memphis Story, "Gravy reporter Mackenzie Martin visits the Pink Palace Museum in Memphis to understand how Piggly Wiggly changed grocery shopping forever. Meal kits. Instacart. Door Dash. At the turn of the 20th century, we didn’t have all of these options. You mostly showed up at a counter and told a clerk what you wanted, and they’d gather all the necessary items and package them up for you. And there wasn’t much in the way of competing brands, either. Then everything started to change in a big way 110 years ago this year, when the most influential self-service grocery store opened in Memphis, Tennessee. Founder Clarence Saunders called it “The Piggly Wiggly Self-Serving System,” and he had several patents for everything: the layout, the price tag system, and even the way he incorporated refrigeration. “You could go in and do your own shopping, and all you needed was one stocker and one clerk,” says Steve Masler, the former curator of exhibits at the Pink Palace Museum. It’s unknown why Saunders named the chain what he did, but the mystery intrigued people. In September 1916, he ran one of the first of many bizarre newspaper ads to announce its opening: “The Piggly Wiggly will establish a new fashion,” it read. “Don’t come, though, unless you mean business and want to buy something.” The idea of choosing your own items at a grocery store seems commonplace now, but it was revolutionary at the time. Suddenly, after years of going to a general store and handing a list to a friendly clerk, customers were expected to wander the aisles on their own and carry items in a wooden shopping basket. Historian Lisa C. Tolbert, author of Beyond Piggly Wiggly: Inventing the American Self-Service Store, says one of the most radical things about the design of Piggly Wiggly is that the traffic only went one direction. That forced customers to walk by and inspect every product in the store, which increased spontaneous purchases and overall sales. “It’s like a vending machine you’re walking through,” she says. In 1922, less than a decade after the opening of the first store, there were 1,200 Piggly Wiggly stores in the United States. Then more grocery store chains followed Piggly Wiggly’s lead and adopted self service models of their own, and Piggly Wiggly transitioned to the more traditional supermarket model we’re all familiar with.  Today, there are just under 500 Piggly Wigglys in the U.S. They are in 17 states, partially in the Midwest, but overwhelmingly in the South. It’s an outlier in the grocery store industry in the sense that it’s managed by individual franchisees across the country and perceived as more local than other nationally known grocery store chains. It’s the kind of place where baggers often carry groceries to customers’ cars, and you can get a soda for 50 cents. “It’s the Piggly Wiggly Way,” said one employee. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In “Texas Pecans, A Thirsty Nut to Crack,” Gravy reporter Avery Thompson explores how a changing climate is impacting pecans in Texas, and introduces listeners to the innovative Texans using both age-old techniques and twenty-first-century adaptations to ensure Texas pecans make it to the grocery shelves—and into a Thanksgiving pie near you. For about as long as there have been humans in what we now know as Texas, they have likely found sustenance in the land’s native pecans. For many years, Texas supplied the world with the bulk of its pecans—but in recent years, the state has seen unprecedented heat waves and droughts, which have stressed not only its residents, but one of its most vital and revered crops. Exacerbating the climate problem is an explosion in population across the state, particularly in central Texas, where urban sprawl from the growing cities of Austin and San Antonio not only puts pressure on the water table, but also offers a tempting cash-out for struggling pecan farmers. Between drought-affected trees and the sale of farms, Texas is seeing a statewide decline in annual pecan yields. And climate scientists predict that these rough recent years are likely not an exception, but a new normal. Still, Texans are finding creative ways to adapt and preserve their trees and a way of life. For this episode, Thompson talks to pecan growers, including Troy Swift of Swift River Pecans, who has turned to regenerative agriculture and biodiversity. She also speaks to Mark Walls of 38 Pecans, who has invented creative new pecan products to boost his business. Jennifer Wammack of Berdolls, a commercial bakery, tells how her family ships pies all over the world and distributes them through vending machines. And Thompson also visits the Lamar Senior Center in Austin, one of the last remaining nut-cracking facilities open to the public, where people come after gathering pecans on their own property each autumn. Hopefully, for many holidays to come, we can all enjoy a big slice of Texas’s state dessert. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In this fifth installment of Gravy's Tending series, producer Shirlette Ammons examines the Discrimination Financial Assistance Program, comparing it to the Pigford settlement and assessing whether this new federal program represents a genuine step toward justice for Black farmers. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In the third episode of her six-part Tending series, host Shirlette Ammons visits Nicodemus, Kansas, a historic Black settlement, to learn how one family’s decades-long battle against the USDA’s discrimination began and how their case became a foundation for the Pigford v. Glickman lawsuit. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices