Sensing Up

Australian wines have never been better, never more diverse, and the perception of them outside Australia has never been worse. It is a paradox that troubles David Gleave, and one he believes can only be undone through storytelling. Valérie sits with one of the most respected figures in the wine world: a Master of Wine since 1986, co-founder of Liberty Wines, and now the man behind Willunga 100, a small-production Grenache label rooted in the sandy soils of Bluett Springs, McLaren Vale. What unfolds is less an interview than an unhurried exchange between two people who have spent their lives paying close attention to what is in the glass and why it matters. The conversation turns to Grenache with a kind of inevitability. Once the most widely planted variety in Australia, it was largely torn out during the vine pull scheme of the 1980s, supplanted by varieties that suited a different moment. David sees its return not as nostalgia but as alignment. At Bluett Springs, where the vineyard sits at elevation above the Gulf of St Vincent and the sandy soils drain freely over a clay and limestone base, old vines produce fruit with a low pH and a natural acidity that needs nothing added. The sand, as David puts it, is the distinction. Valérie and David taste together, a white Grenache from the 2025 vintage paired with a brèbi rosé, the soft sheep's milk from the Béarn, and a red from the Trot Vineyard, with its iron-rich sandy soils and more pronounced tannin, alongside an Ossau-Iraty from the Basque Country. Two pairings that confirm what this podcast continues to find: that pleasure deepens in proportion to what you know, and that a little attention to provenance, to texture, to the particular acidity of a grape grown in sand, changes what is in the glass entirely. Willunga 100 is a boutique winery in Bluett Springs, McLaren Vale, specialising in old vine Grenache. The name draws from the historic Hundred of Willunga, an administrative area of 100 square miles established in 1839, three years after the first settlement of South Australia. In this episode: the 2025 White Grenache paired with brèbi rosé (soft sheep's milk, Béarn); the Trot Vineyard Grenache paired with Ossau-Iraty (sheep's milk, Basque Country). Both available through smellycheese.co. Valérie Henbest is a French-Australian cheese specialist born in Normandie. Imports 10+ tonnes of French cheese monthly, sells at Smelly Cheese Shop, Adelaide Central Market. French National Order of Agricultural Merit 2023. Inducted into Guilde Internationale des Fromagers, Paris. Sensing Up is a space to slow down, pay attention and let the senses lead. Shop: smellycheese.co | Instagram: smellycheeseco | Facebook: SmellyCheeseCo

In this sumptuous episode of Sensing Up, Valerie Henbest sits down with Guy de Saint Laurent — a Frenchman whose career has taken him from yeast factories and foie gras kitchens to the world's most exclusive caviar farms. Guy shares the remarkable journey of French farm caviar, the science and soul behind producing it, and why Australia's culinary scene is fast becoming one of the most exciting in the world. Bring your five senses — and perhaps a glass of champagne. We begin with foie gras — what it is, how it's made, and why it has become so controversial. Guy explains the natural origins of the gavage process, traces its history back to migrating birds, and shares why champagne, not Sauternes, is his preferred pairing for cutting through that signature richness. From there, Guy walks us through his unlikely career — starting as an export manager for Le Saf, one of the world's largest yeast producers, before moving into foie gras with Rougier and eventually finding his way to the world of premium caviar with Sturia. It's a journey that took him from Normandy to Africa, Paris to China, and ultimately to the Gironde river in Bordeaux. The heart of the episode is the fascinating, little-known history of French farm caviar. After the Bolshevik Revolution, White Russian exiles living near Arcachon watched local fishermen throw away the eggs of the native Gironde sturgeon in disbelief — and taught the French how to make caviar. That tradition survived until overfishing forced a ban on wild sturgeon in 1982, which eventually led to the birth of France's first caviar farm and its first harvest in 1996. Guy walks us through the extraordinary effort behind every tin — from hatching and hand-sexing 20,000 fish a year via X-ray, to biopsy, firmness testing, hand-salting with 300-metre-deep mine salt, and the philosophy of postponing or cancelling a harvest entirely rather than releasing anything less than perfect. Nothing is wasted: the flesh goes to restaurants, the skin becomes leather or collagen for medicine. We also explore how caviar has changed. today's farm caviar is low-salt, mineral and delicate — a world away from the over-salted Caspian product of the 1950s that demanded vodka as a palate cleanser. That shift has opened up extraordinary new pairings: caviar on burrata with a drizzle of olive oil, caviar folded into beef tartare with a Bordeaux Merlot, and an unforgettable silent-table moment with a Château Palmer 1967. Finally, Guy reflects on Australia's booming culinary scene — a "pays de la cocagne," or land of plenty — and why caviar is a natural fit for a country blessed with world-class produce from every coastline and climate. About Our Guest Guy de Saint Laurent is an international luxury food specialist based in France. He began his career as an export manager for Le Saf before moving into premium food products — first foie gras with Rougier, then farm caviar with Sturia. Since 2017, Guy has led the international development of Sturia, a pioneering caviar producer based in the Gironde region of Bordeaux. He is a passionate advocate for unexpected pairings and a firm believer that Australia is one of the most exciting food destinations in the world. Try It at Home: Burrata with Caviar This is the showstopping yet simple dish Valerie and Guy served at their Cheese, Champagne & Caviar masterclass. Take a fresh burrata and cut it in half. Place each half skin-side down on a small plate and drizzle generously with a good extra virgin olive oil. Using a mother-of-pearl spoon — never metal, as caviar reacts to it — place a small quenelle of caviar on top. Serve immediately. Trust us. Connect & Learn More Find out more about Sturia Caviar at sturia.com. Follow Sensing Up for more episodes exploring food, wine and luxury gastronomy, and keep an eye on Valerie's channels for upcoming masterclasses and tasting events.

A conversation that sits at the crossroads of diplomacy, agriculture and pure pleasure launches Season 4 of "Sensing Up". Valerie speaks with guest, Vincent Hebrail, the French Embassy's Counsellor for Agricultural Affairs in Canberra, about what it means to be French in Australia today—professionally and at the table. Vincent describes his work strengthening ties between the two countries across agriculture, food, forestry and fisheries, and reflects on how welcome he and his family have felt since arriving. Together, they celebrate the quality of Australian raw ingredients while acknowledging what is still missing from a French point of view, especially when it comes to charcuterie and raw-milk cheeses. Listeners will hear about the long lobbying battle that enabled Roquefort to enter Australia, the technical and financial barriers facing other raw-milk cheeses, and why market demand must justify the extra effort. The conversation then turns to the French system of geographical indications and how Australian regions—from the Barossa to Kangaroo Island—could harness similar ideas to tell stronger stories about their food and wine. Throughout, themes of carbon footprint, food waste and sustainable farming surface, reminding us that behind every bite of cheese and sip of wine lies a complex global system that can, and must, evolve.

Join Valerie Henbest as she chats with Mary Hamilton, the 6th-generation CEO of Hugh Hamilton Wines - one of Australia's oldest wine families. Mary shares the fascinating 185-year journey from her great, great, great grandfather, Richard Hamilton, who established the first vineyard in South Australia in 1837, to the modern, innovative brand it is today. Discover how Mary, with a fierce sense of legacy and an unshakeable drive to innovate, is leading Hugh Hamilton Wines into a bold new era where heritage meets creativity and tradition is reinvented. Learn about the brand's unique 'black sheep' moniker, their wines with personality and Mary's key to success: "Being real and true to yourself."

Valerie Henbest welcomes Dilhan Fernando, CEO of Sri Lanka's iconic Dilmah Tea, to reflect on 40 years of family-led innovation and integrity in the global tea industry. From his father's pioneering legacy to adapting for future generations, Dilhan shares the sensory journey of tea, the challenges of climate change and how ethical business can drive meaningful impact.

Duncan Welgemoed is not your average chef. A rule-breaker with a passion for bold flavours, he's worked in Michelin-starred kitchens, reinvented Adelaide's dining scene and cooked for rockstars. In this episode, Valerie sits down with Duncan to uncover his journey from South Africa to the UK and ultimately, to Africola. From his early days in high-pressure kitchens to shaping South Australia's food culture, this conversation is full of energy, insight and a little bit of chaos - just like his food.

Renowned as the Father of Fusion Cuisine, Cheong Liew has shaped contemporary Australian food with his bold flavours and cultural storytelling. In this episode, Valerie Henbest delves into Liew's journey—from his Malaysian roots to pioneering fusion cuisine in Australia. Discover how a self-taught chef blended Greek, Malaysian, and European influences to redefine the culinary landscape.

Join Valerie Henbest as she explores the Adelaide Hills with renowned chef Kane Pollard. From foraging unique botanicals to mastering century-old cooking methods, Kane shares his journey in sustainability and seasonal cooking at Ondeen and Tasting Australia.

Travel back to the origins of Paris's legendary Berthillon ice cream with Muriel Delpuech. Discover the secrets behind the family business that's been enchanting taste buds since 1954. From creamy classics to vibrant fruit sorbets, learn how Berthillon continues to craft some of the world's best ice creams.

Step into Parisian paradise with Virginie Boularouah, a third-generation cheesemonger. Learn how Virginie's dedication to raw milk, seasonal production, and animal welfare shapes her two beloved shops in Montmartre. Dive into a conversation that celebrates tradition, craftsmanship, and the timeless art of cheese making in France.

In this episode of Sensing Up, Valerie takes us to the breathtaking Kangaroo Island - a haven for food lovers and home to fascinating history and pristine wildlife. Valerie chats with Karin Greenslade, owner of Sea Dragon Lodge, about her journey from Germany to owning a stunning property near the island's lighthouse. Discover how Karin's hospitality background and love for food - including the unique Flammekueche - bring a fresh touch to the island. Plus, dive into the island's unique offerings—from Ligurian bees to award-winning spirits.

In this episode, Valerie Henbest sits down with Jeremy Hulsdunk, one of the key figures behind Five Senses Coffee. Fresh from the Good Food and Wine Show in Perth, Jeremy shares the inspiring journey of how Five Senses was born out of a passion for coffee and a commitment to positively impacting the people it touches. From his beginnings in WA to becoming a certified Q Grader and multi-award-winning barista, Jeremy discusses the evolution of coffee culture in Australia, the story behind Five Senses, and what makes their approach to coffee so unique.

This week, Valerie chats with Rose Kentish, a renowned South Australian distiller and winemaker. Discover Rose's journey from her upbringing on a farm near Mount Gambier to becoming a celebrated winemaker in McLaren Vale. Learn about her adventures in France, her passion for premium produce, and the fusion of creativity and chemistry in her craft. Tune in for an engaging conversation about life, family, and the art of distilling.