
The Service Fee That Sparked a National Firestorm
From Talk Cocktail by Jeff Schechtman
March 21, 2026 · 20 min
About this episode
Chef Geoff Davis discusses the controversy surrounding a 20% service fee at his restaurant Burdell and its implications on labor and tipping culture.
Chef Geoff Davis opened Burdell in Oakland to cook the soul food his grandmothers made — a distinct American cuisine rooted in migration and adaptation rather than Southern tradition. In 2024, Food & Wine named Burdell the “Restaurant of the Year.” On our recent California Sun podcast, he expalins how it was a 20% service fee at the bottom of Burdell’s receipts that recently started a national conversation about labor, class, and whether we’ve ever really reckoned with the racial history of tipping. Get full access to Talk Cocktail Podcast at jeffschechtman.substack.com/subscribe
People in this episode
Guest: Geoff Davis
Topics covered
- service fee
- soul food
- labor
- class
- racial history of tipping
Keywords
- Burdell
- Food & Wine
- Restaurant of the Year
- national conversation
Mentioned in this episode
Products: Burdell
Books & works: Talk Cocktail Podcast
Places: Oakland
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