The Service Fee That Sparked a National Firestorm

The Service Fee That Sparked a National Firestorm

From Talk Cocktail by Jeff Schechtman

March 21, 2026 · 20 min

About this episode

Chef Geoff Davis discusses the controversy surrounding a 20% service fee at his restaurant Burdell and its implications on labor and tipping culture.

Chef Geoff Davis opened Burdell in Oakland to cook the soul food his grandmothers made — a distinct American cuisine rooted in migration and adaptation rather than Southern tradition. In 2024, Food & Wine named Burdell the “Restaurant of the Year.” On our recent California Sun podcast, he expalins how it was a 20% service fee at the bottom of Burdell’s receipts that recently started a national conversation about labor, class, and whether we’ve ever really reckoned with the racial history of tipping. Get full access to Talk Cocktail Podcast at jeffschechtman.substack.com/subscribe

People in this episode

Guest: Geoff Davis

Topics covered

  • service fee
  • soul food
  • labor
  • class
  • racial history of tipping

Keywords

  • Burdell
  • Food & Wine
  • Restaurant of the Year
  • national conversation

Mentioned in this episode

Products: Burdell

Books & works: Talk Cocktail Podcast

Places: Oakland

More episodes of Talk Cocktail

Explore listener stats, chart rankings, contacts and more on the Talk Cocktail podcast page.