The Ground Up Podcast

Fresh off the world premiere of Queen Swing, return guest Laura Pineau is back on the podcast—this time stepping away from the Yosemite speed climbing stories to dive deeper into the experiences and climbing that shaped her. We talk about Laura’s unconventional introduction to climbing through deep water soloing along the sea cliffs of southern France, how those early days falling into the Mediterranean built both her love for climbing and her tolerance for exposure, and the path that eventually led her toward trad and crack climbing. Laura shares the steep learning curve of transitioning from limestone sport climbing to granite big walls, the mentorship and partnerships that accelerated her progression, and how she became obsessed with the craft of crack climbing. We also dive into her groundbreaking ascent of Wet Lycra Nightmare (13d) on Leaning Tower in Yosemite, becoming the first woman to free climb the route, and the mental and physical process behind taking on one of the Valley’s most intimidating testpieces. Beyond Yosemite, Laura talks about her recent adventure with Elsa Ponzo to climb the “100 Most Beautiful Multi-Pitches” in the South of France in just 50 days—a massive endurance project filled with long days, logistics, partnership dynamics, and some of the best (and worst) rock in Europe. - Follow the Laura on Instagram: @laurapineau Check out Laura's YouTube Channel: @Laura-Pineau Read the Planet Mountain's article on Laura's FFA of Wet Lycra Nightmare See the breakdown of the 100 multipitch routes in Provence on Planet Mountain Get the latest information of tour dates for the Queen Swing, part of the Mountains on Stage film tour - Additional Links 100 Most Beautiful Multipitches Guidebook - Camp to Camp Deepwater Soloing Une araignée au plafond Mello Blocco Bouldering Festival - Get access to exclusive and ad-free content by becoming a Patreon Follow along on Instagram: @listentogroundup Check out our new website: https://www.thegrounduppodcast.com/ Sign up for the Mailing List!

Today’s guest is none other than mental‑training expert and longtime first‑ascensionist Arno Ilgner. While most climbers know Arno for The Rock Warrior’s Way—his influential book and program on focus, risk, and commitment—his 50‑year climbing career is just as compelling, and ultimately what led him into the world of mental training. In today's episode, we cover Arno's introduction to climbing in the in the limestone bluffs of Tennessee, climbing with a rack of pitons & hip belays. From there, he went on to establish bold first ascents across the country, including major contributions in Fremont Canyon and the intimidating headwall of Whitesides in North Carolina—routes that remain test pieces even today. We then dive into how his climbing sparked a deeper curiosity about the mind—specifically why he felt more comfortable on runout 5.12 trad than on a perfectly safe 5.13 sport route. That question became the foundation for The Rock Warrior’s Way. We explore some of the core techniques behind his program, how climbers can work with fear of falling or fear of failure, and what it means to climb with more presence and self‑awareness. Finally, Arno talks about the next evolution of The Warrior’s Way as he transitions the program into a broader, non‑climbing context, helping people apply the same tools of awareness, courage, and intentional action to the rest of their lives. - Follow the Arno on Instagram: @rockwarriorsway Arno is also on Facebook, LinkedIn and YouTube Learn more about the Warrior's Way mental training program by visiting their website. Check out the Warrior's Way Retreats, Personalized Coaching, or sign-up for their email list to stay up to date with the latest news! - Get access to exclusive and ad-free content by becoming a Patreon Follow along on Instagram: @listentogroundup Check out our new website: https://www.thegrounduppodcast.com/ Sign up for the Mailing List!

In this episode, we sit down with West Virginia climber and prolific developer Andrew Leich to trace a climbing journey shaped by obsession, grit, and an almost unthinkable comeback. From his early days at the New River Gorge to developing out of necessity in the Cheat Canyon, Andrew built his reputation on bold ascents—including an onsight* of Moonlight Buttress. Along the way, he also shares the surprisingly simple, yet effective, fingerboard routine that helped him build elite endurance. But everything changed after a near-fatal rattlesnake bite left Andrew with severe nerve damage, forcing him to start over from square one. What followed was a long, uncertain road back, redefining his relationship with climbing and progressing his way back through the grades. That journey ultimately comes full circle with his recent ascent of Green Magic in the Hills (5.14b), a route he bolted years earlier but never sent—until now. We also dive into Andrew’s deep impact on the Cheat Canyon, where he’s developed hundreds of boulders and authored a guidebook that’s helped put the area on the map. - Follow the Andrew on Instagram: @andrew_leich Get a copy of the Cheat Canyon Guidebook! Check out Climbing Magazine's recent article featuring Andrew's comeback! - Get access to exclusive and ad-free content by becoming a Patreon Follow along on Instagram: @listentogroundup Check out our new website: https://www.thegrounduppodcast.com/ Sign up for the Mailing List!

In this episode, we sit down with Kathy Karlo to trace an unconventional climbing trajectory—one that started on ice in Ouray and the steep quartzite horizontals of the Gunks, but has led to a life filled with endless single-pitch perfection on the Sandstone of the Southeast. Kathy reflects on how traveling to places like Indian Creek, the Black Canyon, and Vedauwoo pushed her into uncomfortable styles that made her a stronger, more creative climber—and why, despite all that wandering, she’s continually drawn back to the Southeast to pursue some of the most aesthetic trad lines around. We also dive into two of her biggest accomplishments: becoming the first woman to complete the Tennessee Wall Triple Crown—three 5.12 roof cracks outside Chattanooga—and the Linville Destroyer, a massive link-up that adds six formations and a committing river crossing to the already formidable Linville Crusher in Linville Gorge. Beyond her personal climbing, Kathy serves as the Executive Director of the No Man’s Land Film Festival, where she helps amplify women and gender-nonconforming voices in adventure storytelling while building one of the most impactful film tours in the outdoor community. This episode is about choosing the harder path on purpose, learning to rest when needed, and building a life around climbing—without letting it consume you entirely. - Follow Kathy on Instagram: @inheadlights Get more details about the No Man's Land Film Festival at their website! Follow No Man's Land Film Festival on Instagram: @nomanslandfilmfestival Watch the Stone Locals film featuring Kathy's FFA of the Tennessee Triple Crown - Get access to exclusive and ad-free content by becoming a Patreon Follow along on Instagram: @listentogroundup Check out our new website: https://www.thegrounduppodcast.com/ Sign up for the Mailing List!

We’re back! After a short hiatus, we're kicking things off with a State of the Union for The Ground Up Podcast. In this episode, we catch up on what’s been happening behind the scenes—from moves and life changes to why it felt like the right time to pause, reset, and level up the show. We also lay out what’s coming next: a return to a consistent bi-weekly release schedule, a stacked lineup of upcoming guests, and new ways to engage with the Ground Up community. Most importantly, we officially announce the launch of the Ground Up Patreon—a new way to support the show while keeping it largely ad-free. Patreon members will get early access to episodes, opportunities to submit questions for guests, and access to giveaways, merch drops, and more. If you’ve been enjoying the show and want to help shape where it goes next, this is how you can be part of it. Welcome back to The Ground Up. - Get access to exclusive and ad-free content by becoming a Patreon Follow along on Instagram: @listentogroundup Check out our new website: https://www.thegrounduppodcast.com/ Sign up for the Mailing List!

Most would call climbing for 24 hours straight crazy — doing it 20 years in a row is downright ludicrous. In the nearly two-decade history of 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell, only one team has competed every single year: Dick and Natalie Dower, better known as Leather and Lace. Over time, they’ve become true legends of the 24-hour climbing scene at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. In part one of this year’s Horseshoe Hell miniseries, we sit down with Dick and Natalie to trace the history of the event. From hand-written scorecards and early strategy missteps to record-breaking ascents and the evolution of the competition itself, they’ve been through it all. We cover what it was like in the early years, the tactics and grit it takes to keep climbing route after route, and their historic pushes that inspired new generations of climbers. With the 20th anniversary on the horizon, Dick and Natalie reflect on how far Horseshoe Hell has come — and what still keeps them coming back. - Follow Dick on Instagram: @dickdower Follow Natalie on Instagram: @nadneal Follow along with all the Horseshoe Hell Fun: @therealtwofourhell - Interested in signing up for the event?! Check out more details at https://www.twofourhell.com/ - Follow along on Instagram: @listentogroundup Check out our new website: https://www.thegrounduppodcast.com/ Sign up for the Mailing List!

Making history in Yosemite Valley is no easy feat these days, especially if you can count the number of years you've been climbing on one hand. But on May 15th, at just 20 years old, Ethan Morf became the youngest person to free climb El Capitan in a day with an 18 hour ascent of Freerider. In this episode, Ethan recounts his rapid rise from Squamish gumby to Yosemite crusher — a journey fueled by a seemingly endless supply of psyche, long days on granite, and countless hours on the MoonBoard. We talk about learning to climb and place gear via Youtube, his early trad leads (and ground falls), dealing with injuries, and ultimately sending one of the most iconic free routes in the world. This is a story of momentum, partnership, and learning to dig deep when it matters most. - Follow Ethan on Instagram: @EthanMorf Watch Ethan's YouTube videos: @ETHANmorf Check out Ethan's climbing photography and videography:https://www.ethanmorfphoto.com/ Read more about his free ascent of El Capitan:https://www.climbing.com/culture/ethan-morf-youngest-climber-free-el-capitan-in-a-day - Follow along on Instagram: @listentogroundup Check out our new website: https://www.thegrounduppodcast.com/ Sign up for the Mailing List!

Few endurance challenges rival the infamous Yosemite Triple Crown — a mega link-up of three iconic big walls in Yosemite National Park: the Nose on El Capitan, the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome, and the South Face of Mount Watkins. Since its first completion in 2001, no women had managed to complete the feat... That is, until Kate Kelleghan and Laura Pineau showed up. With impressive climbing résumés built in very different corners of the sport, Laura and Kate connected via a simple Instagram DM — both with their sights set on the Triple Crown. In this episode of The Ground Up Podcast, we dive deep into the world of big wall speed climbing and the story behind Laura and Kate’s historic ascent. We begin in Boulder, Colorado, where the pair completed a brief training stint — including setting a new all-female fastest known time on the Naked Edge, a notoriously tricky route in Eldorado Canyon. Then we head to Yosemite Valley, as they walk us through their preparation, strategy, and the push that made them the first women to complete the Yosemite Triple Crown — in a blazing 23 hours and 36 minutes. - The Yosemite Triple Crown The Nose of El Capitan The Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome The South Face of Mount Watkins The Naked Edge - Edorado Canyon - Follow Kate on Instagram: @katekelleghan Follow Laura on Instagram: @laurapineau Read more about this historic ascent: https://uk.coros.com/stories/more-than-splits/c/yosemite-triple-crown-laura-pineau-kate-kelleghan Read more about the new fastest female ascent of the Naked Edge: https://coros.com/stories/more-than-splits/c/naked-edge-womens-speed-record-kate-kelleghan-laura-pineau - Follow along on Instagram: @listentogroundup Check out our new website: https://www.thegrounduppodcast.com/ Sign up for the Mailing List!

In this episode, we sit down with Boone local Sam Dospoy—woodworker, van builder, and climber deeply rooted in North Carolina’s High Country. Sam shares how a two year stint dirtbagging in a minivan sparked both his love of climbing and his custom van build business, Stand Up Vans. We dig into his early days of bouldering over couch cushions at Blowing Rock, the tight-knit and low-beta climbing scene in Boone, and his progression into bold trad climbing and first ascents. Sam reflects on mentorship, the local ethics around development, and the draw of uncovering untouched rock. We also get into the nitty gritty of what it takes to repeat some of 221's most infamous and hardest trad routes, his futuristic project at Hawksbill, how bouldering has shaped his trad climbing, and what it looks like bolting steep routes ground up while hanging from sketchy hooks. - Climbing in Boone with Sam Dospoy: https://youtu.be/rEkMJdHC4gs?si=yB0C2b23oQV64-Gc The Castaway - Ship Rock: https://youtu.be/h6DG1F8K5qQ?si=IYFZRSrYfohA1NVV Blowing Rock Boulders: https://youtu.be/rEkMJdHC4gs?si=yB0C2b23oQV64-Gc Fire in the Hole: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/117126148/fire-in-the-hole Hawksbill Project: https://www.instagram.com/p/B571Y-XD-gN/ Heirloom (Moon Rocks Corridor Project): https://www.instagram.com/p/CM7QCbtDzZo/ Ishmael (Stack Rock): https://www.instagram.com/p/BaJ61_CAQ-H/ Pyramid Scheme: https://www.instagram.com/reel/B8l_ZwUJ_Pc/ - Follow Joel on Instagram: @sam_ayye_am Check out Stand Up Vans on Instagram: @standupvans Find a Stand Up Van that's right for you! - Follow along on Instagram: @listentogroundup Check out our new website: https://www.thegrounduppodcast.com/ Sign up for the Mailing List!

Training for trad climbing isn’t something most climbers think about—but Project Direct coach Dana Taylor is here to change that. Originally from Chicago, Dana spent years sport climbing at the Red River Gorge before catching the trad bug on a trip to Wadi Rum. In this episode, she takes us through her journey into the world of limit trad climbing, what inspired her to pursue coaching, and how she’s helping clients take their trad climbing to the next level. We also dive into some epic multi-pitch adventures at Mazama, wild mountain bike descents, and a few pivotal moments that shaped Dana’s climbing career. - Interested in working with Dana: Project Direct Coaching Follow Along: Instagram From bolts to cams: My journey to trad climbing - Mazama Multi-pitch: Flyboys More Monkey than Funky Separate Reality

Speed climbing is the ultimate culmination of dozens, if not hundreds, of hours spent dialing in beta, trimming the rack, and pushing the body to move as quickly up the wall as possible. Few do it better than today's guest, Joe Kennedy, a speed climbing phenom who holds the record for the fastest bridge to bridge ascent of the legendary Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon. He’s also known for blazing through the Flatirons, either solo or with Satan's Minions, and holds the fastest known times on "Roach’s Top 10" and the grueling "33 Spring Classics." Joe takes us through where he got the need for speed, how he teamed up with Stefan Griebel to take down the Naked Edge record, and what other epic link-ups he's got on the horizon. - The Naked Edge Speed Record Video: https://vimeo.com/764407847 The 33 Spring Classics: https://www.strava.com/activities/9090791867/overview Roach's Top 10: https://www.strava.com/activities/9899803294/overview - Follow along on Instagram: @listentogroundup https://www.instagram.com/listentogroundup/

While most climbers gravitate to El Potrero Chico when visiting Nuevo León, Karly Rager has spent the past five winter seasons learning the dark arts of kneebars in El Salto's tufa filled playgrounds. Fresh off her all female team's First Free Ascent of Guerreras on La Gloria, Karly reflects on what it took to achieve their FFA in the demanding Mexican alpine desert, her early years as a climber in Boulder, Colorado, and lessons learned from training hundreds of other climbers through her coaching business (@ProjectDirect_Coaching). This episode is particularly special since Robert was actually part of the documentary crew that got to film Karly and her partner Mango during their push on Guerreras.

The Western North Carolina climbing scene has been experiencing a recent flurry of hard ascents and Zack Mintz is certainly someone who's been at the heart of it all. A true guru of granite, Zack joins the Ground Up to cover everything from his rapid progression as a climbing guide, how "learning to fail" has helped him succeed, and his passion for capturing other climbers through the lens of his camera. He also walks us through his process for the first ascent of Invisible Brailleways, an appropriately named 5.13 slab route at the North End of Looking Glass with beta so cryptic it required film review to dial in the moves.