Underdressed

What Makes a Sports Bra Actually Work?A conversation with Nicola, senior researcher in bra and breast biomechanics at the University of PortsmouthIn this episode, I speak with Nicola about the science behind sports bras, breast movement, and what actually contributes to support during activity.Nicola works in breast and bra biomechanics, a field that looks at how breast tissue moves, how that movement changes during different activities, and how bras can help control that movement. We talk about why sports bras are much more than a comfort item: they are an important piece of equipment that can affect whether women feel able to run, train, compete, and stay physically active.A major focus of the conversation is a University of Portsmouth study looking at how different sports bra design features affect performance. The study tested 98 sports bras on 77 women in 34B and 34D sizes to understand which design features reduced breast movement during running.The paper identified five key sports bra characteristics linked to performance:Bra style: Encapsulation and combination styles performed better than compression-only styles.Material: Bras made primarily from nylon performed better than those made primarily from polyester.Underband adjustability: Adjustable underbands were linked with better support than pullover styles.Padding: Padding appeared to contribute to movement reduction, not just modesty.Neckline height: Higher necklines were associated with better support than lower necklines.One of the most interesting parts of the episode is the idea that sports bra performance is not just about making a bra tighter. Breast tissue moves forward and back, side to side, and up and down, and different sports create different movement patterns. This means a bra that works well for running may not be the same bra someone wants for weightlifting, rowing, golf, or other sports.Nicola also explains why compression bras are not always enough, especially for larger cup sizes. Compression styles hold the breasts against the chest wall, while encapsulation styles support each breast individually. Combination styles can offer both the structure of encapsulation and the familiar “held in” feeling of compression.We also discuss how much is still unknown. Even after identifying several design features that contribute to sports bra performance, a large portion of what makes a sports bra work remains unexplained. That leaves room for more research into fit, materials, movement, comfort, breathing, and sport-specific design.Sports bras are often treated as a simple clothing purchase, but this conversation frames them as a health and participation issue. A poorly fitting or poorly performing sports bra can affect comfort, confidence, posture, breathing, and whether someone wants to keep participating in sport or exercise.Nicola also talks about the importance of getting this information to the people who need it, including athletes, school girls, and everyday consumers. The goal is not just better products, but better education, so women and girls know they do not have to accept pain, discomfort, or lack of support as normal.Referenced paper: Norris, M., Blackmore, T., Horler, B., & Wakefield-Scurr, J. (2021). “How the characteristics of sports bras affect their performance.” Ergonomics, 64(3), 410–425. doi: 10.1080/00140139.2020.1829090

Grab yourself a sewing project and settle in! This podcast goes deep into the history of Beverly Johnson who shares stories from over 40 years of experience in bra making!Check out our sponsor wayfinder3d.com

Yearly catch up with one of my favourite people, Sofia Luzon!

Another fantastic episode sharing the story of Laetitia Dupuich's evolution as a lingerie designer. Laetitia found her calling while in Business School when she created a lingerie brand for an entrepreneurship course. Through a lot of hard work and grit Laetitia launched a brand, taught courses, freelanced and gained the skills which she applied to learning and using 3D and now continues to trail blaze applying her technical and creative knowledge in the advancement of AI.Here is Laetitia's portfolio;https://dandvconcept.com/

In this episode of Underdressed, I sit down with custom bra maker and teacher Linda Crawford. Linda shares her incredible journey from scuba diving instructor to becoming one of the most respected voices in bra making in Canada. We talk about her early days working alongside Beverly Johnson at Bra-Makers Supply, the birth of a bra making community, and what she’s learned from decades of fitting every kind of body. We also dive into why custom bra making is such a rare skill, how teaching has shaped her expertise, and how cultural shifts continue to influence lingerie design today.Other episodes mentioned:E42 Monica of Bravo Bellas on Learning as Empowermenthttps://open.spotify.com/episode/2cPrcrE7V6ZU8q52KlwfmX?si=311107c8e00a4c4aE5 Ruhee Rajan on The Value of Custom Brashttps://open.spotify.com/episode/5cSmfMa9vHWia3tbSLLw2I?si=dd34437556984ea5

Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% offFind Chloe here:https://www.instagram.com/createdbychloegrant/https://www.instagram.com/peopleoverproductmagazine/In this episode of Underdressed, we speak with Chloe Grant, an intimate apparel designer dedicated to sustainability and ethical fashion practices. Chloe shares her journey from studying contour fashion at De Montfort University to launching her freelance career focused on environmentally-conscious ethically produced garments. The conversation explores the delicate balance designers face between making structured, supportive intimate apparel and minimizing long-term environmental impact.Chloe discusses her approach to sustainability, highlighting innovative materials like bio-based elastane and seaweed-derived fabrics. She emphasizes the importance of accessibility and transparency in sustainability practices and introduces her new project aimed at building a digital community and platform for intimate apparel creatives to easily access sustainability information.The episode also touches on broader industry challenges, such as reconciling consumerism with sustainability, the role of legislation in ethical production, and the potential for digital solutions like CLO 3D to reduce environmental footprints. Join us for an insightful discussion that sheds light on making sustainability achievable and attractive in intimate apparel design.

Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% offIn this episode of Underdressed, I chat with Suhani Pandya, a lingerie innovator with a Master of Science in Intimate Apparel Design. Suhani shares her research on underwire innovation, 3D scanning, and behavioural science to improve bra fit, particularly for full-bust women. We discuss the limitations of traditional grading, the role of SolidWorks and 3D printing in lingerie design and the future of 3D scanning for the consumer.

Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off Where to find Ella; https://www.instagram.com/thefashionfreelancecoach/ https://www.thefashionfreelancecoach.com/ Links Mentioned; You’re A Badass At Making Money, Jen Sincrco (affiliate link) https://amzn.to/3NRKyUX

Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off Where to find Dorelle; https://www.youtube.com/c/TheFashionTech https://www.instagram.com/thefashionindie/

Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off Sofia's Course https://atelier.sofia-luzon.com/online-courses-lingerie-design/ E14 Natalie Graham A Career in Lingerie Design From South Africa To New Zealand https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/trudy-gardner/episodes/E14-Natalie-Graham-A-Career-in-Lingerie-Design-From-South-Africa-to-New-Zealand-e26n4em Sew Heidi https://successfulfashiondesigner.com/ Sofia’s YT Vid about avatars https://youtu.be/j22oh65_cVw?si=GGdhS0vBLEMty58o

Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% off Our next episode features Nicole Holtan, a talented 3D artist and fashion designer. Nicole shares how she built her career around 3D modeling and we also explore the benefits and challenges of using 3D technology today. We discuss the major differences between 3D and AI, and how their work often gets mixed up. Don't miss this fascinating conversation about creativity and innovation in the digital fashion space! https://www.instagram.com/nicoleholtan3d/ https://www.nicoleholtan3d.com/

Sponsor: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Clo3D Foundations For Intimate Apparel Online Course⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ Use code: Underdressed for 20% offOur next episode of Underdressed is an interview I've been looking forward to for a long time with Jenny Rushmore of Cashmerette Patterns! I get into the details with Jenny about the creation of the Willowdale and Loftus bra patterns and we also explore the dynamic structure of her team and business. Enjoy!

I thought this would be a fun way to tell you a bit about myself, but of course it ends with Sofia and I just talking about Clo3D! Enjoy!