Ungrafted

Today I speak with François de Nicolay from Domaine Chandon de Briailles in Savigny-les-Beaune, Burgundy. The 14 hectare biodynamic domaine started experimenting with spraying with skim milk instead of sulfur against powdery mildew in 2013. Powdery mildew (oidium in French) is a major fungal disease that affects vitis vinifera worldwide by decreasing grape quality and yield. Francois talks about how milk works as a preventative and curative measure, as well its advantages and disadvantages. @chandon.de.briailles

Today I speak with Carlton McCoy MS from the Roots Fund and Demeine Estates about Black representation in the wine industry. Carlton grew up in southeast Washington DC where wine was not part of his family or culture. After winning the C-CAP (Careers Through Culinary Arts Program) cooking contest, he earned a full scholarship to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY, which kickstarted his wine career. Carlton became a Master Sommelier when he was only 28 years old, and was the second African American to earn the title. To date, there are only 3 Black Master Sommeliers out of 269. He was the Wine Director at The Little Nell in Aspen before becoming President and CEO of Heitz Cellar and Demeine Estates. Carlton and I discuss the situation of black wine professionals and the importance of mentorship. We also chat about the Roots Fund, which provides wine education, mentorship, and job opportunities for people of color. To learn more about the Roots Fund founded by Carlton McCoy, Tahiirah Habibi, and Ikimi Dubose, please visit www.rootsfund.com Instagram: @carltonmccoy @rootsfund @sippingsocialite @thehuesociety

I speak with Steve Matthiasson, vineyard consultant and owner of Matthiasson Vineyards in Napa, about water conservation in the vineyard. Steve gives an overview of Napa’s climate and how farming practices have changed over the last 20 years. He cautions that drought cycles are more extreme and that all indicators show that there will be less water in the future. He discusses farming practices that help conserve water including planting cover crops, increasing soil organic matter, tilling differently, changing row orientations, and using different trellising systems and deeper rooted rootstocks. It turns out that farming practices that conserve water are also good for the soil. Steve also talks about how certain wine styles require more irrigation, and that there is an aspect to sustainability on the consumer side as well. Photo Credit: Elaine Chukan Brown Instagram: matthiasson_wine Website: matthiasson.com

Today I interview Cristiana Tiberio from Agricola Tiberio in Abruzzo about biotypes. Cristiana discusses the difference between biotypes and clones. She also shares her journey identifying biotypes in her vineyard, including the Fonte Canale biotype of Trebbiano Abruzzese and 4 distinct biotypes of Montelpucinao d’Abruzzo which behave differently in the vines and the cellar. Instagram: @cristianatiberio

We conclude Regenuary with our interview with Mimi Casteel. Mimi is one of the preeminent voices for regenerative agriculture and no till, which she practices at Hope Well Vineyard in Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon. Mimi explains the advantages and disadvantages of tilling, one of which is the release of carbon into the atmosphere, contributing to climate change. She addresses what she believes are necessary changes to farming subsidies and viticultural regulations if we are to achieve a sustainable future. Instagram: @mimicasteel Website: hopewellwine.com Photo by: Aubrie Legault

Today, we celebrate #Regenuary with Jordan Lonborg, viticulturist of Tablas Creek. Tablas Creek farms 120 acres of Rhone varieties in Paso Robles, California. They were certified organic in 2003. They have been farming biodynamically since 2010, and received their biodynamic certification in 2017. They are the first Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) winery by the Regenerative Organic Alliance, established in 2017. The 3 main pillars of the ROC include soil health, animal welfare, and farmworker fairness. ROC aims to sequester carbon in the soils that would otherwise be released in the atmosphere, and helps combat climate change. ROC requires minimal irrigation with the idea that healthy soils need less water. Jordan and I talk about these 3 pillars, including regenerative farming, climate change, tilling, carbon sequestration, cover crops, mob grazing, bees, compost and biochar, and lastly, animal and worker welfare. Instagram: @tablascreek Website: tablascreek.com

Jasmin Swan of Katla Wines, is a new negociant from the “Alt Mosel", a term she coined for the new faces making wines with diverse approaches in the Mosel Valley. Today, I interview Jas about her journey from sommelier in Iceland to winemaker in Germany. Specifically, we chat about the use of PIWI’s as part of sustainable agriculture. PIWIs are hybrids-varieties made by crossing 2 different Vitis species-- bred specifically for their fungus resistant capabilities. This means that they require less spraying, therefore less costs, less tractor emissions, and less soil compaction. Finally, Jas and I talk about the market reception of PIWIs and her future projects. Instagram: @terroirmerroir

In an October 2020 New York Times article, Julia Moskin shared accounts of sexual harassment and assault of 21 women at the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas. She wrote a follow up article, where the Chairman of the Court, Devon Broglie, stepped down amidst sexual misconduct allegations of his own. Many sommeliers, wine professionals, and some Master Sommeliers were vocal about their outrage and much-needed changes. Alpana Singh is one of them. At 26, she became the youngest female and only South Asian to pass the rigorous Master Sommelier test. Her impressive resume doesn’t end there. She is the host of the Emmy-award winning TV Show “Check Please” on Chicago’s PBS station and the owner of 3 restaurants. Today, Alpana and I talk about her rocky 20+ year history with the Court, what changes are needed, why she gave up her Master Sommelier title, advice she has for younger wine professionals, and how this experience influenced her professionally and personally. Instagram: alpanasingh Website: www.alpanasingh.com

Today we speak to winemaker Diana Snowden Seysses about carbon capture and re-use at Domaine Dujac in Burgundy. Carbon is essential for life. There are pure forms of carbon such as diamonds and combined forms such as CO2, which makes up the majority of greenhouse gases —around 80%. Although they are not the biggest contributors to greenhouse gases, emissions produced as a by-product of wine fermentation are 5 times more concentrated than those of cars or planes. Instead of letting this gas get released into the air, we have the option to trap it and turn it into something useful. Instagram @dianasnowsey @snowdenvineyards

We speak to sommelier and importer Jane Lopes who, along with her husband, Jonathan Ross have donated a Ruth Bader Ginsburg lot to the Vines 4 Votes online wine auction. This was in honor of the wine and cheese tasting they held for the late Supreme Court Justice’s 83rd birthday in March of 2016. Jane shares how RBG inspires her to fight for justice and equality. Vines4Votes is an online wine auction from October 12 to 16, 2020. All proceeds are donated to the ACLU of Texas and earmarked for their vote against voter suppression. https://www.legendaustralia.com/ Instagram: @vines4votes

Hi, my name is Icy Liu. Welcome to Ungrafted, a podcast about wine, humanity and the planet. I interview scientists, wine growers, importers and other folks about topics such as regenerative agriculture, carbon footprints, how we treat human beings and so much more.