The Earful Tower: Paris

Let's take a deeper dive into the 20th arrondissement of Paris. This is an updated re-release of the time we visited the 20th arrondissement as part of our Paris Countdown season. You'll hear dinnertime singalongs, a cemetery visit, and more about the best pizza in Europe. There is even an interview with a Polish singer called Gosia who had just finished leading an Edith Piaf show at a local restaurant. (She sings on the episode, too, her fave Edith song, which was J'm'en fous pas mal). You can find everything we mention on this post: This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life. The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris. Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent. For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website Weekly newsletter Walking Tours If you're in a rush, here is a narrative distillation of the episode (meaning, essentially, that you're reading about 10 percent of what happens). Oliver: Let me take you back to December 19th, 1915, in Paris, where a baby girl named Edith Piaf was born on the cold streets of Belleville. She became the soul of Paris and, more specifically, the soul of the district we are sharing with you today in the far east of the city. To get there, we are taking a car, and I'm joined by my wife and confidant, Lina,. Lina: Yes, I am ready. Welcome to a new season. Oliver: I'm very excited. I've described my role this season as the Robin to your Batman. Lina: And usually, I am the Batman, of course. Oliver: We want to give everyone a glimpse into this interesting neighborhood where Edith Piaf served as the muse,. Upon arrival in Belleville, we stayed at the Babel Belleville hotel. It was immediately clear that this is a different version of Paris than the one people expect with berets and the Eiffel Tower. Lina: Especially since we arrived on market day. Oliver: The market was busy, bustling, and colorful, with more people than I've ever seen in a Paris market. We were in full tourist mode, talking to street sellers and eating what seemed like an Algerian Korean crepe,. The area is very diverse and immersive,. We also noticed that as time passed, there were far fewer tourists than in areas like the Marais. Lina: The shops aren't catered to tourists either; many were residential or even closed down,. It's a real, unpolished neighborhood. Oliver: Our plan was to explore for the day and then attend a show at Le Vieux Belleville. The 20th is a large district, so we did a lot of walking. We set our sights on Peppe's Pizza, which is ranked the best pizza in Europe. On the way, we passed the Père Lachaise Cemetery, which is essentially the only major tourist attraction in the district. Lina: I used to live in the 20th and had visited the cemetery a few times years ago, but it is just so big. Oliver: No one should miss it because entering those gates feels like entering a different world. However, it is not wheelchair or push-chair friendly due to the huge cobblestones,. While the most famous grave is often cited as Jim Morrison, I went looking for the ultimate hit: Edith Piaf,. Her grave is somewhat unassuming, much like her famous little black dress. After the cemetery, we finally had that pizza, which lived up to the hype with its unique toppings like cheese and marmalade,. Lina: It was delicious. Oliver: Next, we looked for La Campagne à Paris, the "countryside of Paris". It's a remote area with cottage-style houses built on top of old quarries, which is why the buildings are so low,. Our cab driver even gossiped that the previous president, François Hollande, lives up there. Lina: It was lovely, though since it's winter, there were more sticks than greenery. It's a great spot for a 15-minute walk and an Instagram photo. Oliver: That evening, we went to Le Vieux Belleville. We were worried it might be cheesy or touristy, but we ended up staying for three hours,. I managed to warm up the owner by telling him he looked like George Clooney,. Every Tuesday is Edith Piaf night, featuring an accordionist and a wonderful Polish singer named Gosia,. Lina: The vibe felt like crashing a French family's dinner party,. Oliver: We were the only foreigners there, but everyone was dancing and singing together. It was an utterly surprising amount of fun. Afterward, I stepped outside to interview the singer, Gosia,. Oliver: Gosia, that was a wonderful performance. How did a Polish woman end up singing Edith Piaf in Belleville,? Gosia: I started learning French by singing her songs. I adore the "gut" emotion in her singing; she comes from the streets. Piaf is an icon, but not many people really listen to her music anymore. Oliver: What makes a good crowd for you? Gosia: A crowd that realizes they actually can sing along. I know the evening worked if people are exchanging phone numbers and talking to their neighbors by the end. It's more of a ritual than a concert. Oliver: What is your favorite Piaf song? Gosia: My favorite is "J'm'en fous pas mal". Oliver: You also mentioned this is the best district in Paris. Gosia: It is getting gentrified, but it's a lovely, mixed, working-class area where Piaf was born. It has the real life of the neighborhood and an original Parisian feel,. We need to enjoy it while it lasts. Oliver: Le Vieux Belleville really captured the vibe of the neighborhood. My only complaint was that the lighting was a bit too bright,. Afterward, we walked down to Rue de Belleville and visited a bar called Aux Folies where Piaf used to perform,. Lina: That bar has a great "old Paris but young vibe" with neon lights. It's very picturesque, but don't expect fancy cocktails—it's all about cheap drinks and fun. Oliver: We stayed at the Babel Belleville, which has an international, "multi-culti" vibe that represents the 20th well,. The next day, we visited a brand-new cafe called The Dancing Goat, run by a young British guy,. Lina: The cafe was beautiful and fresh. Regarding the street art, it was cool but perhaps not as much as I had hoped for. Oliver: I think the 13th arrondissement might be better for street art, though Rue Dénoyez had some huge murals,. Finally, we decided to rank the district based on five categories: Strollability, Affordability, Sharability, Touristability, and Accessibility,. The Scores: Strollability: Oliver (4), Lina (3) — It's too big and has too many hills. Affordability: Oliver (10), Lina (10) — Probably the cheapest in Paris. Sharability: Oliver (5), Lina (4). Touristability: Oliver (3), Lina (5) — Lina liked the views and the bars,. Accessibility: Oliver (3), Lina (2) — It's quite far from the rest of Paris. Oliver: My total was 23, and Lina's was 26, giving the district a 49 out of 100,. Lina: It failed! Oliver: It's not a fail, it's just a very residential district. I probably wouldn't stay here on a first trip to Paris, but it's a great experience if you've been here before. Join us next week as we head to the canals of the 19th Arrondissement. Oliver and Lina: Bye-bye!

Have you ever heard of Rungis? It's the world's largest wholesale food market, it provides all the Paris markets and restaurants with their fresh produce, and you can find it near the Orly Airport. Or can you? This place may as well be top secret. Only the vendors and restauranteurs can access it - yet it's as big as a village. Every night, at around 2am, produce sellers (like fishermen and cheesemongers) open their doors to the eager buyers, who charge in and negotiate prices for the goods. And even though it's closed to the public, I got an invite to make this episode. My invite came from April Pett who runs April in Paris tours, check her out here: https://www.aprilinparistours.com/ Big shout out to market vendor Jaad who took us around and whose laughter echoed through the halls of Rungis all night. You can find more about the market here (but remember, it isn't open to visit to the public). https://www.rungisinternational.com/ Here's the replay of the short live video we made: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeiII9gqlZo And the rest of our pictures are on social media, the rest of my videos will be for the members, only. Links below. ******************** The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris. Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent. For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website Weekly newsletter Walking Tours Music: Pres Maxson

Paris has a new mayor! That's right, after 12 years at the helm, Anne Hidalgo has stepped down. Parisians voted for a new mayor, and taking her place will be Emmanuel Grégoire. But who is Emmanuel Grégoire? What does a Paris mayor actually do? And what will be the legacy of Anne Hidalgo? This week's guest is Paris-based reporter Katy Lee, the co-host of the podcast The Europeans, and the woman behind the Millefeuille Substack page, which she calls the "newsletter for Parisians who are bad at local news". Follow Katy to find out more: The Millefeuille newsletter The Europeans *********** The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris. Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent. For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website Weekly newsletter Walking Tours Music: Pres Maxson (his take on Sous le ciel de Paris, by Edith Piaf)

Almost like a sacred ritual in France, the apéro is much more than just a drink with friends. Véronique Savoye from France With Véro explains more. And be sure your membership is up to date to see Vero and I answer your questions about Paris in mid March 2026. This is an episode from The Earful Tower archives. *********** The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris. For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website Weekly newsletter Walking Tours Music by Pres Maxson.

Last week we introduced you to Sophie, the newest character in our world of children's books. Today, we're checking in - with a huge thank you - halfway through the Kickstarter campaign. As you may have seen, we hit the target in 15 minutes. Now, as the campaign continues, we're donating books to local schools, hosting Online Salons, and giving you two last chances to be in the book... if you're quick. The project will end on Friday February 6th. You can get your own copy here. Thanks to all who've contributed so far - merci mille fois. *********** The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris. Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent. For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website Weekly newsletter Walking Tours Music by Pres Maxson.

I did it! I climbed the south tower of the Notre Dame cathedral and it was every bit as wonderful as I had dreamed. I brought the microphone up there with me, join me for the full experience. *********** The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris. Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent. For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website Weekly newsletter Walking Tours Music by Pres Maxson.

IT'S BACK AGAIN! Every year we make a bucket list of things we want to try for the first time in Paris. In this episode, you'll hear Oliver and Lina sharing their top five things they want to do this year in Paris. Why not write your own list and join us? The full list will be on our official website and Substack shortly. *********** The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris. Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent. For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website Weekly newsletter Walking Tours

For the first time ever, I'm in France for Christmas. Specifically, I'm in the charming Provence town of l'Isle sur la Sorgue. But what do the French eat on the big day? I have no idea. I walked around this beautiful town, the Pearl of Provence, the Venice of the South, and I asked the locals. You'll hear from Nathalie at Maison Moga and Aluna from Maison Jouvaud, both excellent stop-offs if you're looking for local food treats. I'll share pics and videos along the way, be sure you're following our social media channels! *********** The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris. Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent. For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website Weekly newsletter Walking Tours

This week it's The Earful Tower's musician Pres Maxson. We talk about his new novel, how he came to work on The Earful Tower, and French music in general. This chat was streamed live for Earful Tower members, join the crowd and meet cool people in Paris (Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. As for Pres, find his new book, Chinatown Troubadour: https://www.amazon.fr/Chinatown-Troubadour-Story-Pres-Maxson/dp/B0DY7Y8Z4Q Find Pres on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/presmaxson/?hl=en Find Pres on Substack: https://presmaxson.substack.com/ The story of Pres Maxson's first record in ten years, produced by The Earful Tower: https://presmaxson.substack.com/p/my-first-record-in-10-years *********** The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris. Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent. For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website Weekly newsletter Walking Tours

Let's talk theatre. This week on the show is Irish actor/playwright Hannah Coyle (who is also one of the Earful Tower tour guides!) Hannah talks about the theatre scene in Paris, especially the English-language scene, She also talks about Alchemy Theatre's forthcoming production of Three Sisters, which she personally reimagined from Chekhov's classic play. It runs at Théâtre de l'Opprimé (78 Rue du Charolais, 75012 Paris) from 9–14 December. *********** The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For the past 92 months and counting it has cost just $10 a month to unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris. Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent. For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website Weekly newsletter Walking Tours

Meet Loïc Estimbre, a Parisian entrepreneur who is behind four different eateries on just one street in the 12th arrondissement. That street: rue Emilio Castelar. In this podcast episode, we talk food in Paris, the 12th district in general, and the challenges of funding four separate spots. As for Loic, I met him when he was behind the counter at the Magic Carpet cafe and was surprised to see him literally building a new eatery down the road. Imagine my surprise to learn that he leading a team that was behind half the places on this little street. His spots: The restaurant: Le Singe à Paris The café: Magic Carpet For beer and whisky: Chinaski The sandwich spot: Johnny Dwich The music in this episode is from Pres Maxson. *********** The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For the past 92 months and counting it has cost just $10 a month to unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris. Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent. For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website Weekly newsletter Walking Tours

This week on The Earful Tower podcast it's Jake and Holly Barker, two American tourists who were actually inside the Louvre's Apollo Gallery when it was broken into on Sunday. I met them in the Marais to record their dramatic story. "When we heard the saws, we both knew that something serious had happened." It's reported that nine items from the crown jewel collection were taken from the Louvre. Also featured in this episode was Amber Minogue, our Louvre tour guide. Please get in touch to book a tour with her. The music in this episode was from Pres Maxson, rather fittingly his take on Elton John's "Mona Lisas and Mad Hatters". *********** The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For the past 92 months and counting it has cost just $10 a month to unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris. Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent. For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website Weekly newsletter Walking Tours