The Materialist : A Podcast from At Present

For this episode of The Materialist, host Marc Bridge sits down with Ivette Stephanopoulos — a 25-year jewelry industry veteran whose career has spanned nearly every corner of the business, from retail and GIA to De Beers, Tiffany, and David Yurman. Recorded on location at the Las Vegas shows, often described as the industry’s “Super Bowl,” the conversation moves from the emotional power of an engagement ring to the unresolved tension between natural and lab-grown diamonds, and from the rise of high jewelry to why so few American brands have built lasting design-driven followings.A Career Built on Connection, Not BirthrightUnlike many in the trade, Stephanopoulos didn’t grow up in a jewelry family — she fell into the industry through an early job at a small New York retailer. What kept her in it, she says, is that jewelry is fundamentally a “happy industry”: every transaction sits at the center of someone’s milestone, whether an engagement, an anniversary, or a personal celebration. Looking back across her stops at GIA, De Beers, Tiffany, and David Yurman, she describes each chapter as building on the last, deepening her understanding of where a piece of jewelry actually comes from — the mines, the communities, the artisans — before it ever reaches a customer’s hand.Why a Diamond, and Not a Trip to Jamaica?Bridge presses on a deceptively simple question: why do diamonds, specifically, carry the emotional weight of a marriage proposal? Stephanopoulos points to rarity, durability, and tradition — a diamond is something a couple can own forever, pass down, and point to as a tangible marker of a “first large purchase” early in a relationship. That sense of permanence, she argues, is what transforms a transaction into an investment in the relationship itself.The Natural vs. Lab-Grown DivideThe conversation’s most pointed exchange concerns lab-grown diamonds. Stephanopoulos is candid that the natural diamond industry has spent the last decade-plus on the defensive, and that this defensiveness has come at a cost: by failing to proactively educate consumers, the industry ceded significant market share to lab-grown alternatives, which she notes are also more profitable for many retailers — creating little incentive to fully return. Her prediction is one of coexistence rather than reversal: natural diamonds won’t reclaim their former market position, but they’ll retain a smaller, devoted base of buyers who value provenance and rarity. Notably, she points out that virtually no major high jewelry house works with lab-grown stones — at the top of the market, natural and untreated remains the standard.High Jewelry, Status, and the Idea of “Important”The two also unpack what separates “high jewelry” from the rest of the market — generally pieces priced at $50,000 and above, often built around rare or one-of-a-kind gemstones. Stephanopoulos describes the purchase process for this tier as an experience rather than a sale: brands cultivate a sense of exclusivity and storytelling — introducing the mine, the artisan, the designer — so that price becomes almost an afterthought. She draws a sharp distinction between something “expensive” and something “important,” arguing that importance is usually personal or sentimental rather than intrinsic to the object itself, while in auction-house language, “important” is often simply a polite synonym for rare.The Real Problem Isn’t Materials — It’s StorytellingA recurring theme is Bridge’s hypothesis that the jewelry industry has been held back not by debates over diamonds or fluctuating gold and silver prices, but by a persistent failure of storytelling and creativity. Stephanopoulos agrees, pointing to David Yurman as the rare counterexample: an American brand built almost entirely on design and narrative — the love story between Mr. and Mrs. Yurman, an accessible entry price point, and a broad demographic reach — rather than on metal content or carat weight. Bridge critiques the industry’s habit of leading with material specifications (”it’s 18 karat”) instead of meaning, arguing that materials should justify a price point, not serve as the selling point itself.Giving Back: The Armenian Jewelers AssociationStephanopoulos also discusses her role as president of the Armenian Jewelers Association, a global organization connecting the disproportionately large Armenian presence across the jewelry trade — from major houses to independent ateliers. The association’s mission includes showcasing emerging Armenian designers at shows like JCK and Gem Geneva, and exploring manufacturing partnerships with Armenia itself, where favorable export tariffs and strong craftsmanship traditions create real opportunity.Closing NoteAsked about her most recent personal jewelry purchase, Stephanopoulos shares that she recently upgraded her own engagement ring after 20 years of marriage — keeping her original three-stone ring (with plans to eventually pass it to her daughter) while moving into a Tiffany piece in yellow gold, a shift from the platinum that once defined “rare” metal. It’s a fitting close to a conversation about meaning, permanence, and the stories we choose to keep — and pass down. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

On Instagram, it looks effortless: the infinity pools in the Maldives, the safari sunsets in South Africa, the couture fit checks against a perfect backdrop. Laura and Nicolas Herbert — known to their hundreds of thousands of followers as @laurandnicolas — seem to embody the ultimate lifestyle: global travel, editorial style, and a business powered by beauty.But as Laura reveals in this week’s episode of The Materialist, the dream is much more complicated.From Antwerp to EverywhereLaura began her career in Antwerp’s fashion world. But a six-month trip with Nicolas — meant as a sabbatical — changed everything. They started an Instagram account to document their travels, posted every single day (sometimes setting alarms for 2 a.m. to catch the right window), and slowly transformed a personal experiment into a professional platform. Hotels began reaching out. Fashion brands followed. And eventually, the couple built a dual business: influencer distribution and commercial photography for luxury clients.The Cost of BeautyWhat looks like vacation is actually work. For every perfect sunrise photo, there’s a wake-up call at dawn. For every dreamy campaign, there are countless emails, logistics puzzles, and the stress of feeding an algorithm that rewards relentless output. Laura admits to burnout, to losing the ability to see some destinations as “vacations,” and to the ongoing negotiation of how much intimacy to share with an audience that feels they know you.“It’s our job to make it look like a vacation — but it rarely is.”Style, Mystery, and the Magazine MagicLaura also reflects on how Instagram has changed. Once it was about editorial photography, thoughtful composition, and images that felt like magazine spreads. Now, the push is toward photo dumps, immediacy, and intimacy. Laura misses the mystery and magic of the editorial era — and wonders if there’s a way back. Her own style, she says, is classic but playful: she dresses to the destination, and she believes accessories and jewelry turn an outfit into a statement.The Places That Still Take Her Breath AwayDespite the grind, there is still wonder. For Laura and Nicolas, South Africa remains the most magical place they’ve ever been — from the conservation-driven safaris at Royal Malewane and Tswalu to the light and food of Cape Town. Namibia, just an hour away, is another favorite, with landscapes that feel cinematic. These are the places where the dream and the reality align.Listen NowThis conversation is about more than travel and style — it’s about the costs and rewards of turning passion into profession. Laura Herbert shares what it really takes to live the life that looks like a dream.Laura Herbert and Marc Bridge, The Hotel Chelsea, August 26, 2025 This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

Victoria Gomelsky and Marc Bridge Live from the Fabulous Venetian Hotel and Casino, Las Vegas.Welcome back to The Materialist. I recorded this special episode live from the jewelry shows in Las Vegas—the annual gathering point for the industry’s global village. Fittingly, I sat down with Victoria Gomelsky, Editor-in-Chief of JCK Magazine, contributor to The New York Times, and one of the most thoughtful chroniclers of the jewelry world for over two decades.Victoria and I talked about what keeps her coming back to JCK after 23 years, why jewelry is still a face-to-face business in a screen-filled world, and how she ended up with a watch named after her—literally, The Gomelsky.Some highlights:"This business runs on trust—millennia ago, you only traded gems with people you knew. That legacy still shapes the industry today.""Of all industries, jewelry is the most intimate—and the most global. You walk one aisle and you’ve met people from China, India, Botswana, Sri Lanka… it’s like the U.N. in diamonds.""Shinola’s CEO said, ‘We can’t come up with a name for this watch—what’s your name?’ I said Gomelsky. And that’s how I got a watch line named after me.""Trade press may not be glamorous, but it's where you learn the real business—the players, the politics, the paradoxes."We also get into:* The evolution of women buying jewelry for themselves* Why trade shows still matter in the age of Instagram* How the jewelry press balances journalism with brand hospitality* Her accidental path from Soviet émigré to New York Times travel writer to gemstone editorVictoria’s storytelling reminds to stay open to serendipity as the best experiences—and the best careers—are rarely planned. You can read her latest New York Times stories here and find her on Instagram at @vikavickyvictoria. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

This week on The Materialist, I sit down with milliner and creative force Gigi Burris, founder of Gigi Burris Millinery and the nonprofit Closely Crafted, which champions artisanal production in the U.S.We talk about how Gigi went from sewing hats as a Parsons student to dressing Rihanna and being a CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund finalist—while keeping her studio (and her soft-coated Wheaten Terrier shipping manager, Brooklyn Bow) right in the heart of Chinatown. She shares what it means to build a niche brand in an age of sameness, the surprisingly diverse world of hat-wearers, and why confidence is the accessory that really matters.Highlights from our conversation:* ✂️ The difference between a milliner and a millionaire (and why she hopes to be both one day)* 👒 How Rihanna ended up in a senior thesis hat from Parsons* 🧵 The Vogue Fashion Fund bootcamp that shaped her business* 🇯🇵 Why Japanese department stores get everything first* 🎯 Closely Crafted’s mission to revive U.S.-based artisan production* 💡 “If you're going to be intentional about the way you dress, why would you not do so from head to toe?”* 👛 Shout-outs to fellow makers: Eve Fehren, Lizzie Fortunato, Don’t Let Disco, and Underwater Weaving Studio.Gigi Burris O’Hara at her studio and store in Chinatown, NYCMarc Bridge wearing a Gigi Burris Hat Pin as a Lapel Pin, NYC This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

What does it mean to make something lasting in a world built for speed? In this episode of The Materialist, I sit down with Sam Broekema, Editor in Chief of Only Natural Diamonds, to talk about permanence, disruption, and the enduring power of jewelry.Sam shares his journey from a small town in Wisconsin to the fashion departments of Vanity Fair, Harper’s Bazaar, and InStyle, where he honed his editorial vision. Now, at Only Natural Diamonds, he’s building a platform that champions storytelling over sales — and elevates diamonds not just as luxury goods, but as cultural artifacts rich with meaning.We talk about:* Why the best jewelry stories aren’t about price, but about people.* How legacy publications lost their footing — and what Sam is building instead.* The difference between a Chanel bag and a bracelet from your grandmother.* How Dezso by Sara Beltrán, 10,000 Things, and Nikos Koulis are redefining contemporary fine jewelry.* The joy of imperfection — from salt-and-pepper diamonds to poky stones with soul.We also discuss why print still matters, how Gen Z’s obsession with authenticity is reshaping luxury, and why responsibility and sustainability aren’t in opposition to indulgence — they’re part of it.Sam’s editorial ethos? Surprise. Delight. Tell the story no one else is telling.📸 Follow Only Natural Diamonds on Instagram🛍️ Discover emerging designers we love at atpresent.com This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

Every so often, a guest joins The Materialist who manages to collapse categories: intellect and indulgence, strategy and sparkle, Prada and Gramsci. This week, that guest is Tariro Makoni.Tariro is a strategist, writer, and the voice behind Trademarked, one of the smartest (and funniest) Substacks on the internet. She writes about fashion, politics, and consumer behavior with such clarity and candor that you’ll never look at a sweater—or a tariff—the same way again.In our conversation, we dig into:* The emotional logic of “frivolous” purchases* Why women drive 85% of consumer spending (and what that means for power)* The return of smoking as a sign of late-capitalist burnout* And why what’s happening on the Prada runway is an economic indicator—even if your professor doesn’t think so.But we also talk jewelry. Not as trend, but as text. Symbols, signals, little indulgences that reveal how we see ourselves—and what we want others to see.What’s on Tariro’s wrist (and mind):* A Carolina Bucci Lucky Bracelet — silk and gold, worn until the threads say something new* A Cartier Juste un Clou — flipped backwards to reclaim its meaning* A Charm Factory Star Bracelet — substantial, a little magical* And rings by Vanessa Hernandez — “the light of my life,” as Tariro puts itEach of these pieces comes with a story. A context. A cultural echo. And that’s what this episode is about: the meaning beneath the sparkle.🛍 Explore jewelry that tells a story📩 Subscribe to Tariro’s Substack: Trademarked This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

“You may not have heard of Ali Pew, but you are probably — indirectly — wearing something she told you to,”— Harriet Walker, the fashion editor of The Times of LondonAli Pew, stylist, creative director, and creator of the influential newsletter Uniform, joins The Materialist to unpack the power of intentionality in personal style and curating life's meaningful objects. Ali shares her career journey from Conde Nast Traveler and W Magazine to Goop, offering insightful perspectives on how editorial fashion translates into real-world dressing. Our conversation spans the California wellness scene ($18 smoothies!), the art of finding timeless wardrobe essentials, and the evolving landscape of digital media and fashion.Ali thoughtfully explores her philosophy around building a lasting wardrobe, emphasizing quality, versatility, and emotional resonance. She highlights her favorite fashion houses and designers—including Phoebe Philo, Proenza Schouler, JW Anderson, Prada, Maria McManus, High Sport, and Peter Mulier at Alaïa. Ali also discusses how jewelry uniquely captures sentimental value, noting standout brands such as Cartier, Sherman Field, Tabayer, Kloto, and the thoughtful curation at At Present.Tune in for Ali's reflections on navigating the ever-changing fashion landscape, why certain pieces feel truly indispensable, and how the objects we choose to surround ourselves with shape our personal narratives and sense of identity.Ali Pew with At Present Stylist-in-Residence Jalil Johnson and Booth MooreHotel Bel-Air, March 27, 2025 This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

In the latest episode of The Materialist, I sit down with my friend Ben Gilbert, co-host of Acquired, to talk about brands, luxury, and the meaning we assign to the things we own.Ben has spent the last decade dissecting the world’s most successful companies, and in light of his recent blockbuster five-hour episode on Rolex, we sat down to explore what makes something valuable—not just in dollars and cents, but in culture, psychology, and personal connection.What We Cover:🔹 Luxury vs. Premium – Why a $20,000 handbag performs the same function as a $1,000 handbag, but people are willing to pay more. Is it just branding, or is there something deeper at play?🔹 The Rolex Effect – How a brand moves from being a product to becoming the default mental image of an entire category. Is success just about making a great product, or does it require reshaping how the world sees it?Marc’s circa 1977 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Reference 1503 in 14k yellow gold.🔹 The Scarcity Question – What happens when technology disrupts luxury? We get into lab-grown diamonds, high-end watch dupes, and whether the future of desirability is in real rarity or just perceived rarity.🔹 Materialism vs. Meaning – Do we define ourselves by what we own? Ben reflects on how he surrounds himself with brands that feel reliable—Trek, Starbucks, Apple—but stops short of calling himself a "materialist."🔹 The Power of Storytelling – Whether it’s a luxury house like Hermès or a company like Apple, the most enduring brands aren’t just selling products. They’re selling identity, continuity, and trust.Why This Conversation MattersWe live in a world of abundance—countless choices, endless products, and AI-generated everything. But as options multiply, trust becomes the scarce commodity. Who do we trust to curate our choices? Who do we trust to tell us what’s real?That’s as true in business as it is in style, and it’s why brands that stand for something—brands that have built reputations over time—continue to thrive. The companies that endure are the ones that make us believe in something beyond the product itself.This episode is about the difference between function and feeling, utility and symbolism, price and value. And it’s a reminder that the things we bring into our lives aren’t just about what they do—they’re about what they mean.Ben hard at work at Master Control, ACQ Global Headquarters, Seattle, WA. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com