The RunOut Podcast

Erik Murdock is the deputy director at the Access Fund, climbing’s national advocacy organization. Today we’re encouraging climbers to submit their comments on the climbing management proposals for federal lands. Check out the show notes for all the links. But first, the show’s ailing hosts navigate a new world order of safe space climbing, from the local choss heap to one of the most iconic piece of granite in the country. The final bit is a song titled Odds of Dawn, written and performed by our super talented friend Andy Mann, a National Geographic photographer, director, musician, and climber.  Show Notes Access Fund: https://www.accessfund.org Write your comment here : https://www.accessfund.org/action-alerts/action-alert-help-secure-the-future-of-americas-climbing Super hot enormo-foot: https://www.instagram.com/p/DZ5DCLMFebO/?img_index=1 Andy Mann: https://www.instagram.com/andy_mann/ https://www.andymann.com Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Fallon Rowe is a climber, writer, coach, teacher, researcher, and many more things. Her new book is called Pay No Mind: A Memoir of Climbing, Abuse, and Survival. Beyond discussing the traumatic story that she tells in her book, we enjoyed listening to Fallon bring her always thoughtful, grounded perspective to the way she approaches movement, risk, and life on the rock. But first, we sit down to talk about The Art of Suffering. No, not the kind of suffering we normally describe of getting to Rifle and finding nowhere to park. The kind of suffering that only one of alpinism’s most enigmatic and thoughtful philosophers could articulate: Voytek Kurtkyka, the legendary Polish climber.  Our final bit comes from climber, listener, and drummer Todd Hammond, and the Utah-based band The Statuettes. This track is called The of End of Everything. Show Notes Follow Fallon Rowe: https://www.instagram.com/fallonclimbs “Pay No Mind: A Memoir of Climbing, Abuse, and Survival” at DiAngelo Books: https://www.diangelopublications.com/shop/p/pay-no-mind Voytek Kurtyka: “The Art of Suffering”: https://thefossilclub.blogspot.com/2012/07/art-of-suffering.html?m=1 More on Voytek: https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214642/The-Art-of-Freedom-The-Life-and-Climbs-of-Voytek-Kurtyka The Statuettes on Bandcamp: https://michaelgross.bandcamp.com/music Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Danielle Sarli is a kindergarten teacher, musician, and passionate climber. She is the author of Little Climber, a new kids’ book illustrated by Amanda Joy Hogan. We discuss how to tap into that kid-like innate urge to climb, and kindle the joy that we all feel when stand on top of the world—or our own projects.  But first, your inquisitive show hosts take a moment to ask each other anything. Literally, anything. Last, we’d be remiss not to share some of Danielle’s musical chops. Here she is performing Beauty Land.  Show Notes Follow Danielle Sarli: https://www.instagram.com/danielle_climbs/ Order “Little Climber”: https://littleclimberbook.com/shop Watch “Beauty Land” music video: https://youtu.be/y1Jc2xvI_oo?si=eVUstBI6i_k1ONJ_

Nate Liles is a photographer, filmmaker, and development director at the American Safe Climbing Association. Today’s conversation with Nate centers on the state of bolts and bolting in America today, and the tenuous landscape of route developers, local climbing organizations, land managers, and community-organized bolting events that keep the state of hardware at our crags in the best shape possible. We talk about best practices regarding how to maintain hardware, where we’ve inadvertently created issues, and the importance of supporting your local climbing organization—not to mention the ASCA itself—with your dollars.  But first, we talk about bad kids at the crags and reaching the threshold for when there are just too many of these rotten, no-good brats ruining our wilderness experiences. Last but never least, today’s final bit comes from the talented photographer and musician Taylor Shaffer Show Notes Follow Nate Liles on Instagram Follow the ASCA on Instagram Donate to the ASCA SafeClimbing.org Orographic Creative Follow Taylor Shaffer and Taylor Shaffer Music on Instagram Taylor Shaffer on Spotify Taylor Shaffer interview

Emily Weinstein is a New Yorker, radical activist, rabid Met’s fan, and climber who lives on a house boat in the San Francisco Bay. Her new book is called Turn to Stone: A Memoir.  But first we catch up what’s happening in our climbing worlds, from stancing out out projects to taking a stance on fear.  Our final bit is an excerpt from a standup comedy act from Ethan Newman. Show Notes  Follow Emily Weinstein Turn to Stone: A Memoir from Simon & Schuster Follow Ethan Newman The One and Only Bar in St George Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Tanner Wanish and Michael Vaill are two of the best speed climbers in Yosemite today. They currently hold the record for the historic Yosemite Triple Crown with a time of 17 hours and 55 minutes, and they’re also the only climbers to also add in a fourth big wall on top of that feat—a linkup they dubbed the Quad.  We spoke to Tanner and Michael about their partnership, the allure of linkups, the dangers of speed climbing and competition, and the real joy beyond what you see on social media of clocking big walls for breakfast. But first, bolts be pulling out, yo. What’s the best way to address aging crags? Your fixed podcast anchors weigh in. Last, the infamous Tall Jonathan, of the podcast formerly known as TAPS call-in fame, AKA Jonathan Sides, delivers Something More. Show Notes Forget the Yosemite Triple… These Guys Just Did the Quad How Two Lesser-Known Rock Climbers Smashed a Fabled Yosemite Record Follow Tanner Wanish Follow Michael Vaill Listen to “Something More” by Jonathan Sides on Spotify Follow Jonathan Sides on Instagram Enormocast 302: Last Rites  Increase your RunOut runtime. Become a RunOut Rope Gun!  Bonus episodes, AMA, and more are available on Patreon. This is the best way to support the show! Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

Jordan Cannon is a professional climber, known for his free and speed-climbing feats on El Capitan. Mark Hudon is one of the fathers of big-wall free climbing, best known for making a very early and audacious free attempt of the Salathé Wall in 1979 with Max Jones, nearly a decade before El Cap was officially first free climbed by Todd Skinner and Paul Piana. Jordan and Mark’s partnership is legendary, best encapsulated in the film “Free As Can Be,” which documents Jordan’s ascent of Freerider in a day and Mark’s attempt to finally complete a free ascent of El Capitan by the same route, more than four decades later.  On today’s episode, we make podcasting history by recording our episode live from halfway up the side of El Capitan, as Jordan attempts to free the Salathé Wall via the rarely repeated, and arguably official crux pitch—the infamous pitch 19—with Mark supporting him on belay.  This is a two-part episode. To hear the second half of our conversation, you’ll need to join us at Patreon.com But first, your over-stoker podcast hosts run into the latest climbing headlines and cover the biggest downgrades to the most impressive ascents, while wondering whether it’s all just one big Tommy Caldwell sandbag. Today’s final bit features the return of the Seattle post punk power trio rock band Dragontail Peak, with the song Three Rules–as in three rules of big-wall climbing. Show Notes Mandatory listening: “Bonus: The Free Salathé Wall’s Strange Revisionist History”  “Bonus: Pitch 19, Part Deux” Enormocast: Episode 152: Mark Hudon and Max Jones – As Free as Can Be. Follow Jordan Cannon on Instagram Follow Mark Hudon on Instagram Mark Hudon website Bill Ramsey, 64, does Wrongdoer (8b+) Tommy Caldwell, 46, does Empath 9a (+) calling it 8c From V16 to Big Walls: Pietro Vidi Makes the Second Ascent of ‘Lurking Fear’ UNCUT: “No one Mourns The Wicked” – V17/9A – Hamish McArthur Follow DragonTail Peak on Instagram DragonTail Peak on Bandcamp Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard is the executive director of Urban Native Collective, the host of the Life on the Margins: An Urban Native Experience podcast, the co-founder of the Indigenous Field Guide, and a collaborator with the American Climbing Project. She recently stepped down from the Red River Gorge Climbing Coalition Board of Directors over their decision to discontinue their community programming: Climb L8, an initiative integral to their efforts to remove systemic and financial barriers to entry into rock climbing. But first, your very influential podcast hosts discuss the latest list of top climbing influencers, talk about what we want to see on social media, and give our draft picks for our top follows. Our final bit is Boulder-based climbers Kyle Ward and Dave Cohen’s band Dry Mouth, back with a track, Lost Boys, off their EP Cactus Jazz Demos. Show Notes Follow Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard on Instagram Urban Native Collective Urban Native Collective on Instagram Life on the Margins Podcast Life on the Margins Podcast on Instagram American Climbing Project on Instagram American Climbing Project on Patreon Climb L8 – web archive Follow Kyle Ward on Instagram Follow Dry Mouth on Instagram Dry Mouth – Soundcloud Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast