The Struggle Climbing Show

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional OG climbers and advocates Shannon Stuart-Smith, Hugh Loeffler, and Paul Vidal, join for a live discussion at iconic Miguel's Pizza during Rocktoberfest to explore: The hilarious stories behind the naming of the classic routes “Two Women Alone” and “Mercy the Huff” Early days of bolting routes at the Red The forest service bolting ban that prompted Shannon, Hugh, and others to take action to protect the Red How to fake your way into becoming an organization The discovery, development, and purchase of the Motherlode The discovery of The Dark Side The Hominy Hole incident Petzl RocTrip and Rocktoberfest - PLEASE SUPPORT THE WORK OF THE RRGCC IF YOU CAN, ALONG WITH THESE RAD BRANDS WHO SUPPORT THE COALITION: Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition: Freedom to climb is not free. If you climb at the Red, become a member! PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. Petzl: The best and most reliable helmets, harnesses, draws, and gear that'll help you to Access the Inaccessible. Find Petzl at your local gear shop, and learn more at Petzl.com Rhino Skin Solutions: Take care of your skin, send harder! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase! And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson(normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on PatreonGet access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow Climbing Coach Joy Black joins to discuss: How to make a 30-min session count Removing friction to start workouts faster Being strong doesn’t mean being good Her groundbreaking study on climbing while pregnant How dangerous is falling while pregnant? Helpful signs to know when to end a session Postpartum training and climbing I HAVE A PELVIC FLOOR (and so do you) Listener Q&A Follow joy on IG, @climbingwithjoy, and email her for a copy of the study: [email protected] - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Why This Paper Matters00:48 Meet Joy Black05:01 Small Talk and Cold Plunges08:07 Parenting and Training Consistency13:08 Beating Perfectionism16:56 Joy’s Current Struggle21:12 Coaching Pregnant Climbers24:52 Sponsor Break27:45 Replacing Opinion With Data33:14 Study Methods and Fall Risk36:24 Risk Rates In Context37:29 Talking With Providers40:01 Bouldering Falls Breakdown41:38 How Climbers Self Modify44:03 Misconceptions About Falling45:50 Miscarriage And Birth Outcomes46:48 Natural Taper And Guardrails50:45 Pregnancy Not Performance Season54:12 Intentional Climber Ad Break56:04 Mental Health Benefits58:18 Relaxin And Finger Training01:03:21 Defining Postpartum Timeline01:06:13 Breastfeeding Vs Recovery01:08:11 Pelvic Floor Explained01:12:55 Postpartum Pelvic Floor Rehab01:16:04 Pelvic Floor Progression01:17:04 Coaching Lessons for All01:19:41 Consistency and Intentional Training01:20:55 Finger Training Focus01:22:31 Overcoming Iso Repeaters Setup01:25:52 Overhead vs Ground Repeaters01:28:32 Stacking Sessions and Block Pulls01:30:22 Rapid Fire Listener Q&A01:30:36 Kids at the Gym Tips01:32:53 Caffeine During Pregnancy01:34:05 Two Years Postpartum Rebuild01:37:41 Where to Find Joy01:39:06 Wrap Up and Next Pro Clinic01:41:11 Host Updates and Upcoming Events01:47:48 Final Thanks and Sign Off - Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, boulderi