The Struggle Climbing Show

Test YOUR Critical Force, break through plateaus, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson(normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Dr. Tyler Nelson returns to dive deep on Critical Force, including: How to test critical force Why it matters My critical force test Why MVC is still king How critical force tells us what to train Improving power endurance on and off wall The big change I’m making to my training now What boulderers should focus on kill Why so many pros don’t test finger strength Dr. Tyler Nelson's Critical Force Field Test is on the Intentional Climber app! Test your CF and get instant training recommendations from Tyler based on the results. Here are Tyler's other episodes to check out: https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-on-finger-strength/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/expert-analysis-training-with-dr-tyler-nelson/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-power-with-dr-tyler-nelson-free-preview/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-pro-clinic-on-building-endurance-for-bouldering-and-sport-climbing/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-stronger-wrists-stronger-climbing/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-dr-tyler-nelson-on-how-to-maintain-and-gain-strength-beyond-age-35-free/ - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Critical Force Teaser00:22 Show Intro and Focus01:39 Critical Force Explained05:20 Host Updates Australia06:47 Meet Dr Tyler Nelson08:05 Testing Protocol Breakdown11:07 Interpreting Your Numbers15:27 Energy Systems and Plateau18:23 Testing Method Matters23:58 Who Should Use This25:43 Arc'teryx Academy Ad26:59 What Results Mean Training31:42 Route Goal Flower Power33:28 Training Interventions Percentages41:49 No Gear Testing Options43:49 Treadwall for Endurance45:28 How To Train From Metrics47:38 Critical Force Takeaways48:57 Power Endurance Priority50:28 Training Tools Setup52:09 Active Rest Explained53:39 80 vs 60 Percent Blocks56:11 Retesting and Progress57:35 Elite Curve and Technique01:01:47 Why Pros Skip Testing01:04:00 More Quality Attempts01:09:31 Repeater Protocol Details01:11:41 In Season Projecting01:14:52 Peaking for Fall Season01:19:57 Outro and App Protocol01:23:49 My Current Training Plan01:27:25 Final Wrap Up - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym cl

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson(normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on PatreonGet access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Pro Climber, Ethan Salvo, explores: His rapid ascent from V1 to V16 in just 7 years Specific training for Lucid Dreaming Adapting strength for his style Being weak on a 20mm edge When to commit to beta on a project Learning to control his temper Pursuing perfection of movement Slowing down the projecting process The power of journaling Letting the magic in - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up boards. I’m training on the Homewall Full Ride, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo! And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. A hero indeed! - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction to the Struggle Climbing Show 00:31 Meet Ethan Salvo: The Young Phenom 01:16 Ethan's Climbing Journey and Achievements 03:00 The Disappearance of Portable Boulder 03:59 Conversation with Ethan: Climbing Styles and Challenges 08:10 Ethan's Training and Nutrition Insights 36:54 Tactics and Mental Game in Climbing 42:03 Micro Beta and Climbing Style 44:12 Event Horizon: The Hardest Boulder in Canada 45:11 Tactical Insights and Gear Customization 54:51 Mindset and Mental Game in Climbing 01:02:57 The Joy of the Process and Achievement 01:11:29 Journaling and Embracing the Magic 01:22:44 Future Goals and Expanding Horizons - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available! https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow In this Pro Clinic, climbing coach and dyno master Charlie Schreiber explores: The 5 pillars of mastering dynos The #1 issue that holds climbers back by up to 4 grades Beginner dyno training program Managing fear of injury The power of keeping a dyno journal Which specific setups and moves to practice in a gym setting Where to program dyno training within other training and climbing The Japanese chat code for dyno domination The specific biomechanics of a dyno and how to optimize each step - Enter the giveaway! https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/charlie Work with Charlie: https://www.paradigmclimbing.com/ Follow Charlie: https://www.instagram.com/paradigm_climbing_coaching/ - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction and Welcome 00:29 Guest Introduction: Coach Charlie Schreiber 02:43 Charlie's Climbing Philosophy and Rocklands Trip 04:01 The Importance of Patience in Climbing 11:32 Defining Dynamic Climbing and Dynos 13:57 Key Elements for Successful Dynos 18:17 Overcoming Fear and Building Confidence 24:15 Practical Tips for Dino Training 28:49 Falling Practice and Safety 32:45 Advanced Dino Techniques and Variety 34:49 Conclusion and Giveaway Details - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong Support the Show on PatreonGet access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow Anna Hazelnutt is back with another Crag Chat packed with laughs, musings, updates, struggles, beta, and whatever else is on our minds, including: The ups and downs of a climbing injury Training legs and core The rad climbing scene in Colombia Surprise guest and Canadian Crusher, Connor Runge Training while on a long climbing trip Connor's coaching style Pros and cons of dating a climber - THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY: Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up boards. I’m training on the Homewall Full Ride, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score up to $1000 off plus a free gift pack let’s goooo! Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - To work with Connor as a coach, hit him up at Project Direct: https://www.projectdirectcoaching.com/connorrunge Check out Anna’s latest videos on her YT channel: youtube.com/@annahazelnutt Check out The Struggle’s latest videos at: youtube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @annahazelnutt - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!